tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42329607084272297632024-03-19T19:09:46.636+07:00Bugs LifeAbout World Bugs and Photography of Bugs,Specification.goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comBlogger225125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-13852406478722239132012-09-21T18:37:00.001+07:002012-09-21T18:37:39.319+07:00Big Brother 7 - Meet the Contestants - Part Three<strong><p>Continuing the introduction of the housemates entering the seventh series of reality Tv show Big Brother, here are four of the seven men prepared to miss this summer's World Cup to try and last 13 weeks in the Uk's most intense goldfish bowl environment.</p></strong>
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<p>Pete Bennett</p><p>Age: 24. From: London. Occupation: Unemployed.</p><p>Pete is a budding rock 'n' roll singer and cartoonist now living in Brighton. He was diagnosed with Tourette's Syndrome at the age of 14, started wearing women's clothes aged 16 and impersonated Freddie Mercury at his mother's wedding. When asked why he wanted to partake on Big Brother he replied: "to reach the top of my spiral to heaven and shine again. Also, if I was to win the money I would like to pay off my mum's mortgage so she can finally live her life because she looked after me for so long. And I crave fame and would like to be a paramount Touretter". Pete lives alone except for a pet hamster called Magic, who roams freely around his house and lives in the wall.</p><p>Shabaz Chaudry</p><p>Age: 37. From: Glasgow. Occupation: Unemployed.</p><p>Shabaz is singular and has been "unemployable" for the last 21 years, although has done a lot of voluntary care work since he was 16, helping the disabled and population with special needs in his local community. He admits that he has never been in love and has never had a boyfriend as he thinks men are afraid of his flamboyant personality. When asked why he wanted to be on Big Brother he replied: "because I've never had the flatmate or housemate feel as I've lived by myself for nearly 21 years and I want to challenge myself". He claims he has a phobia of straight-acting homophobic homosexuals and would like to be reincarnated as a woman so that he can have children.</p><p>Richard Newman</p><p>Age: 33. From: Canada. Occupation: Waiter.</p><p>Richard is single, lives in London and describes himself as a "sexual, passionate and hostile man hunter". He loves going out all night in Soho and production conquests, but equally enjoys dinner parties and the theatre. When asked why he wanted to go on Big Brother, he replied simply: "just for the money". He says the person he would least like to find in the house is a woman who is eight months pregnant. He has a strong fear of them and even fears being interviewed by Davina McCall when he leaves the house. Sexism, racism and men who turn down his advances make him angry and if he could pass any law it would be that all right men must have a homosexual encounter.</p><p>Glyn Wise</p><p>Age:18. From: Blaenau Ffestiniog. Occupation: Part-time lifeguard / Head boy in 6th Form.</p><p>Glyn is the youngest member of the Big Brother house and is finding send to receiving nationwide attentiveness and being able to show off his "sexy body to millions".</p><p>He is fiercely proud of his Welsh inheritance and feels that all Welsh population should speak the language. Glyn aspires to be the first male Page 3 model and is article with his life and body he would like to be reincarnated as himself, declaring: "I am the closest example to perfection". However, he doesn't get on well with members of the animal kingdom, claiming: "I hate all animals and they hate me".</p>
<p></p><p> <a href="http://wirelessnconnectionspeed.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Wireless N Connection Speed">Wireless N Connection Speed</a> <a href="http://beautyguidetips.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Beauty Guide and Tips">Beauty Guide and Tips</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-55792684184591323802012-06-17T20:19:00.001+07:002012-06-17T20:19:34.687+07:00Your Nightmare: Bed Bug Larvae<strong><p>One of the best weapons that the bed bug has is stealth. Habitancy are inevitable that bed bug problems were exterminated when Ddt was introduced some time after World War I. However, because of the globalization that is happening today and because a lot of Habitancy are now traveling, there has been a vital rise of infestations cases. Eggs and a number of bed bug larvae can ordinarily be found in mattresses and other parts of a hotel room which is something that you should look out for.</p></strong>
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<p>And since most of us are not aware that they still exist and can cause trouble, it became a huge threat to every home.</p>
<p>Because we are inevitable that these bugs are things of the past, we tend to disregards their existence and will leave ourselves vulnerable from their attacks. Moreover, conventional insecticides nowadays are only targeted to eliminate mosquitoes and cockroaches and there are no inevitable formulation that is used to kill eggs, bed bug larvae and the adult bug itself.</p>
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<p>What Are the Symptoms of an Infestation?</p><p>The thing that you should watch out for is the scent that these bugs will cause. You should also look at some signs of their existence through bumps found on your body in the morning. Also, keep a look out for blood stains on your shirt. Often when you roll over in the night, these bugs may be squashed by your body, leaving blood stains on your shirt. Lastly, if the infestation is so severe, you can also find some eggs and bed bug larvae in your mattress and bed sheets.</p><p>These bugs have two tubes where he uses the one to suck blood while the other to inject a inevitable anesthetic which will make him safe from your detection. This is the most alarming part because you will end up unknowingly being the host of these bugs. That is why Habitancy don't ordinarily wake up during the night as bed bugs suck their blood.</p><p>These bugs are known to be nocturnal that is why they are most likely to attack by night but they will also feed during the day if they are given the chance, so never put your guard down. The fact that they are tiny makes them very hard to detect. They can hide to even the smallest holes and you will not even observation them there. You should keep in mind that they will tend to be close to their host that is why seeing them will be easier for you with regards to the area of your search.</p>
<p></p><p> <a href="http://netgearwgrrouters.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Netgear WGR Series Routers">Netgear WGR Series Routers</a> <a href="http://wirelessinternetrouter.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Wireless Internet Router">Wireless Internet Router</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-33052129969601909302012-05-20T12:00:00.001+07:002012-05-20T12:00:06.178+07:00selecting a Bird Bath - Options<strong><p>It is a fact that birds love water, and having a bird bath will attract birds to your yard or the area that you desire to view birds. Bird feeders will attract birds that will be feeding on the single type of feed you put into your feeder. A bird bath will attract more birds; a wide variety of species will come to your area. To drink and to bathe is very important thing for all birds. The water has to be fresh and in a clean. This will make it safe for a few reasons. Clean helps it to make it likely that insects and infection are not present. It will help to keep it clean for bird bathing, which they do in shallow water. The bathing from the birds will add to the contamination of the water. Because the bird will have collected things that it will be there in the water after it's bathing.</p></strong>
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<p>To have a fountain or a dripper will help in holding the mosquitoes form laying eggs, they like stagnant water. The movement of the water will help attract birds. The sound is spicy to birds and us alike. It will be fun watching the birds bathe and play in the fountain or a raised dripper. The depth should be no more than 3" deep, with an area of 2" on less for smaller birds. You might have to add some small flat rocks if it is too deep.</p>
<p>The cleaning of the bird bath is very important for the birds. The build-up of algae will occur in the summer months and make the lowest very slippery. Which might have the birds leaving your area if it is not good for garage footing? The more comfortable they are the more you will see them. A cement or concrete bird bath has a good surface for sure footing. If you get an rough lowest one make sure you get the allowable tool for the cleaning, as they will need a good brushing come cleaning time.</p>
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<p>There are products that will preclude stains, organic contaminants and mineral deposits. The will keep the water clean naturally and are non-toxic. If yours does not have spicy water. You can get a solar fountain. The movement of the solar insert will help to lengthen the time between cleaning, just as in a swimming pool. As stated it will attract more birds and give them something to play in when they are there. If the water is spicy it will take more time for the water to freeze.</p><p>But, the solution for frozen in frigid weather will be a heater. You may have a heated bird bath or you can setup a heater. You can get heated mat that lies on the lowest of the water. The mat will not harm the birds. There are many styles of that have heaters in them already. The cord will be able to be wrapped up for the summer months, out of sight.</p><p>Styles vary in shapes from pedestals, deck mounts and hanging. Pedestal on have assorted shapes and materials, form iron and glass to sculpted columns and ones with self containing water, that are supplied from a source that you supply. They are self feeding so you will not have to fill them at all. They can be a focal point in your orchad or hang one from a tree or even mount one on the railing of your porch or deck.</p><p>No matter what type you choose. You must reconsider the placement of your bird bath. Make sure it is in a safe place for the birds. They must have an fly from predators such as cats and hawks. A good placement would be close to a tree, bushes or shrubs. Are safe areas. To make the birds feel safe will keep them advent back, you will be sure of their return.</p><p>The hours will start to obtain in the enjoyment for all you family, in the viewing of the birds playing and bathing. You might have two bird baths in distinct areas for added viewing enjoyment. When you get your first or second make sure you read about the set up and care of that single one you choose. This will ensure the enjoyment for both the bird and your family. Plus your guests will enjoy viewing the birds and the nature you have invited to your backyard. So enjoy all that has been put there for our enjoyment.</p><p>Enjoy, Michael Perrien</p>
selecting a Bird Bath - Options
<p></p><p> <a href="http://mywirelessbgnrouter.com" rel="dofollow" title="MY WIRELESS BGN ROUTER">MY WIRELESS BGN ROUTER</a> <a href="http://homemade-air-conditioner.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Homemade Air Conditioner">Homemade Air Conditioner</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-10784109920642665252012-04-23T09:00:00.001+07:002012-04-23T09:00:38.977+07:00Growing Butternut Squash<strong><p>Butternut squash is a tasty organery treat that keeps long after your organery quits producing. It is a winter squash, presumably because of its firm nature and longer tendency for storage. You'll find the size of the butternut squash to be in the middle of 8 inches and a foot long. Some of them may weigh as much as three pounds. The face is regularly a light tan and the interior is the scrumptious orange that makes it a rival for pumpkin in cooking.</p></strong>
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<p>How to Grow</p>
<p>If you're a seed saver, you'll want to keep the butternut squash away from zucchini or other squash as they can cross-pollinate. It won't hurt the crop you have this year but you may have some intelligent squash next year. There is a gardening wives tale that if you plant cucumbers next to squash you'll end up with bizarre seeing veggies, which are inedible, that's not true. They don't cross-pollinate. It's like mating a wolf with a house cat, it just won't happen.</p>
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<p>When to Plant</p><p>You'll need to plant the butternut squash in hills after the opportunity of frost passes. Plant the seeds in hills by placing 4 seeds per hill spaced practically 4 inches apart and ½ to 1 inch deep. Space the hills four to six feet apart.</p><p>Soil and Fertilizations</p><p>Butternut squash likes to eat and loose soil with lots of organic matter. Make a composition of compost and manure. Turn into your soil before you plant the butternut squash. You may need to fertilize consistently throughout the season. You can do this by development a fish or manure tea.</p><p>Watering</p><p>Butternut squash will lose its fruit if you allow the plant to dry. However, overwatering is just as bad since it causes mold and fungus to charge the plant. If you have a drip irrigation system, that works quite well. Check the soil for dryness. Remember the large leaves of the plant expose it to more evaporation.</p><p>Types of Pest /Disease and stoppage or Control</p><p>You're not the only one that looks transmit to your squash. There are bugs and pests that also eagerly await not just the fruit but the leaves and vines also. Squash bugs, striped cucumber beetles and squash vine borers are the main pests of butternut squash.</p><p>Squash bugs are easy to recognize because they are brownish and have a shield shape. As a child, you may have called them stinkbugs since they smell when you squish them. You can control the limited pests with diatomaceous earth, neem oil and sabodilla. You can also use companion planting to deter the pests. Nasturtium, corn and marigolds work quite well. Squash bugs and beetles like shelter and hide in mulch. Use newspapers for mulch and keep floating row covers over the ground to deter all three insects.</p><p>Aphids also play a role in carrying disease to the squash even though they don't de facto hurt the squash otherwise. Use lady beetles to control aphids. Trichopoda pennipes is a parasitic fly whose young feed on the squash bug. Some types of wasps feed on the eggs.</p><p>Bacterial wilt occurs when you have cucumber beetles so if you control the beetles you've conquered that disease. You'll sell out the inherent for black rot, downy mildew and gummy stem blight by a drip watering principles rather than watering from overhead. Using disease resistant varieties of butternut squash also eliminates many separate diseases.</p>
Growing Butternut Squash
<p></p><p> <a href="http://htcphonessprint.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="HTC Phones Sprint">HTC Phones Sprint</a> <a href="http://best-ant-killer.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Best Ant Killer">Best Ant Killer</a> <a href="http://diy-air-conditioner.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="DIY Air Conditioner">DIY Air Conditioner</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-80991102722087063792012-04-12T05:45:00.001+07:002012-04-12T05:45:03.965+07:00Brazilian Hair Straightening treatment<strong><p>Girls with wavy, curly, kinky, or nappy hair: ultimately there is a solution! It's the latest trend and fad that all the celebrities are doing. It's called a Brazilian Hair Straightening. This medicine is setting the new standard for level hair.</p></strong>
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<p>This medicine will turn your hair from drag to fab in less than 2 hours depending on the length of your hair. The best part is that it lasts up to 4 months! So no more weekly visits to the salon for a 0 checkup and no more monthly re-treatment visits to your favorite barbershop, the Brazilian keratin hair straightening medicine is it girls.</p>
<p><strong>What is a Brazilian Hair Straightening Treatment?</strong></p>
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<p>Brazilian Keratin Hair Straightening is a revolutionary medicine is an intense medicine that softens, smoothens, and most prominent gives you <em>straight hair.</em></p><p>It does not use any strong chemicals to open and close the hair cuticle in an effort to straighten it, breaking the bones of the hair shaft. Keratin is a natural substance, which comprises roughly 88% of your hair. It penetrates the hair repairing internal damage and coats the hair preventing supplementary damage.</p><p>It is <strong>Keratin based</strong> which is a type of protein high in sulphur and the amino acid cystine, making it tough, elastic and insoluble. These qualities are fundamental to the strong structural role keratin often plays in nature. It is a major component of horns, hooves and wool. In fact, keratin is the main protective substance in our hair, skin and nails.</p><p>This is not a permanent straightening but a natural treatment. Therefore when the goods is gone, your hair will be back to its natural form.</p><p><strong>Who can get this treatment?</strong></p><p>It's recommended for all types of hair: virgin, colored, highlighted, previously straightened, kinky, curly, and wavy hair. The beautiful part about this medicine is that it lasts for a long time. You can expect up to 3-4 solid months of beautiful level hair. Good luck with your Brazilian hair straightening treatment.</p><p><ul><li>Can be used over any kind of straightening.</li>
<li>Based on keratin that plainly straightens.</li>
<li>Works better over colored or chemically treated hair.</li>
<li>You can go into the pool or ocean after this treatment. (After 4 days)</li>
<li>Pregnant or nursing women <strong>cannot </strong> get this medicine done.</li>
<li>Will remain in virgin hair for 2 months, any other type of hair for 3-4 months.</li>
</ul></p><p>There are some things you want to look out for when searching for a salon that offers thermal reconditioning. First, find out which straightening goods they use. The best Brazilian hair straightening ideas is 'Chocolate' which is imported directly from Brazil. This is the ideas that the major salons use. Second, make sure the technician performing the assistance has fullness of taste in the process. Most good salon's will contribute you before and after photos of past clients.</p><p><strong>Things You Can Do The First 4 Days</strong></p><p>Initially there are some precautionary steps to take to ensure the best straightening possible.</p><p><ul><li>You do want to wear your hair down for at least 4 days to allow the goods to decide in your hair.</li>
<li>Do use a blow dryer or flatiron as needed, (in case hair gets wet while the first four days.)</li>
<li>Do wear a silk scarf to pull your hair away from your face.</li>
<li>Do use a shampoo without Sodium-Chloride (Sulfate-Free) on your hair at all times.</li>
</ul><br><strong>Things Not To Do For The First 4 Days</strong></p><p><ul><li>Don't wash your hair for the first time.</li>
<li>Do not tie your hair into a ponytail.</li>
<li>Do not use hair clips.</li>
<li>Do not place your hair behind your ears.</li>
<li>Do not exercise or sweat.</li>
<li>Do not use hair bands.</li>
<li>Do not use your glasses to hold your hair back.</li>
<li>Do not use sprays, gel or mousses.</li>
</ul></p><p>Bottom line, if your hair is unruly, frizzy, or overly curly and you would like to have low maintenance, hassle free hair that is shiny and straight, a "<a target="_new" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.sickoffrizz.com">Brazilian Hair Straightening</a>" is just the thing for you. I hope you enjoy beautiful level hair.</p>
Brazilian Hair Straightening treatment
<p></p><p> <a href="http://chelsea-goals-clips.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Chelsea Fan Club and Goals">Chelsea Fan Club and Goals</a> <a href="http://air-conditioning-compressor-troublesh.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Air Conditioning Compressor Troubleshooting">Air Conditioning Compressor Troubleshooting</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-5233455519427943752012-04-06T17:45:00.001+07:002012-04-06T17:45:12.064+07:00Fly Fishing for Brown Trout - What You Need To Know To Be Successful?<strong><p>Fly fishing for brown trout can be a great experience, either done alone, with a partner or the whole gang of family and friends. One should remember that there is no exact formula or technique that will work for this. It is a inequity of these techniques and the ability to decree which of these techniques works well to your advantage. There are discrete ways on brown trout fly fishing and here are some of them.</p></strong>
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<p>1. Brown trout move slow while the winter season, so placing baits for them to hunt or chase is absolutely a wrong decision. while this season, trout tend to stay deep underwater and do not move that much. It is foremost to place your fly nearest to these fish. Also, since the fish stay deep, you need to use flies that are heavy and will not float to the surface. Nymph fishing is the best technique to use while these times. Nymphs imitate insects that thrive in the water and would not look conspicuous to trout underwater. You can use heavily weighted nymph flies to go down deep and entice the fish to take the bait. Someone else good fly to use are bead flies since they have more weight than proper nymphs are and more thoughprovoking to get the trout thoughprovoking and seize it.</p>
<p>2. Summer fishing for brown trout is more thoughprovoking for fishing enthusiasts. One great idea to use while your fishing trip is the dry and dopper technique. This technique is basically attaching a high floating dry pattern to the end of your line while attaching a second smaller nymph pattern from the hook of the first fly. This will entice both fish located at the outside area of the water and at the bottom. The fish will have the chance to choose which bait o take, thus giving you more chances of getting a catch.</p>
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<p>3. Browns eat all varieties of food that their habitat can provide. They eat practically all things from insects like ants, beetles, gnats and caterpillars, to other invertebrates. They even feast on frogs or small mouse. In this sense, it is hard to predict which fly that appears like these foods will absolutely work. In several occasions, the browns are very picky and prefer natural baits from the imitations. Try to tailor your fly box with varieties of fly that will work in distinct water situations as well as the time of the year. Keep the collection big sufficient to cater to the distinct condition that you might face later on.</p><p>4. In early spring, trout will be looking for aquatic insects for food. Most of the time, caddis and nymphs flock the lakes. They are often in dark color like dark brown, black or olive. So, in selecting the flies that you would use, you need this facts to use the proper appearance of your fly fish to what is abound in the environment. while summer, browns are often attracted to insects that get blown to the water and drown. It is in this regard that it is best to use fly patterns such as grasshoppers, moths, ants, beetles and caterpillars. For fall and winter, nymphs with minnow imitations or egg patterns are great catchers.</p><p>Fly fishing for brown trout can be a learning process as much as an thoughprovoking adventure to go through. Since the success of your prime fly fish is relative, it should not dampen your spirit in trying this activity. Your ability to adapt to the requirements of your brown trout is already a step in comprehension them and later on knowing the right trick for the right catch.</p>
Fly Fishing for Brown Trout - What You Need To Know To Be Successful?
<p></p><p> <a href="http://paralleltousbcables.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Parallel To USB Cables">Parallel To USB Cables</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-64269086452920028212012-04-01T05:46:00.001+07:002012-04-01T05:46:44.927+07:00Use Pest operate When You Are Growing Grapes at Home<strong><p>Growing grapes at home is not that much distinct from how they are grown in a large vineyard. When you start growing your grapes you will recognize you have some enemies. These consist of insects and birds. All of these could hinder that perfect harvest you are aspiring for! Here's a rundown on some of the most coarse culprits:</p></strong>
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<p>Cane borer - loves to charge the grape cane just as shoots begin to harden. Adult Cane borers burrow into live canes in quest of wintering sites. The adult borers feed on the dead wood in the vineyard and they generate sawdust that shows up on the leaves. Visible sawdust on grape leaves can be a sign of their nearnessy in the vineyard, especially in late fall or early winter. Adult borers can reach up to 3 inches in length. The young of the cane borer are legless larvae with flat heads.</p>
<p>Phylloxera -- attacks the grape vine's root system. This bug will kill your grape vine in just a few months if you leave it untreated. The phylloxera is approximately microscopic in size. The resulting weakened roots and fungal infection that comes after the preliminary charge can restrain the roots, cutting off the flow of nutrients and water to the vine.</p>
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<p>Cane gallmaker - produces noticeable red galls on new shoot increase just above nodes. The majority of galls appears away from the fruit clusters and cause no serious crop loss. Vines with galls can still furnish a crop the following year. Cane gallmakers reproduce only once every year. You need to find these pests before they reproduce. Adult gallmakers portion only 3 millimeters in length. The gallmaker lays its eggs in late fall and hibernates straight through the winter in your vines. Then it begins to molt while early spring. To find this pest, look for any swelling in the shoots and also look for round exit holes on the shoots that are made by the exiting adult gallmaker larvae.</p><p>Besides those insects already mentioned above, a host of other insects also want to feast on your vines and growing grapes. They include: Leafhoppers, Japanese beetle, Rose chafer, Eight-spotted forester, Grape berry moth, Grasshoppers, Sphinx moth, and Leaf roller. Learning how to recognize and control each one is principal to having a wholesome sufficient vineyard.</p><p>Some insects are in effect good for your vine and you do not want to eradicate these helpers because they feed on mites and other troublesome insects. You will want to work with your local gardening town to get help to know which insecticide to use.</p><p>Grapevines are durable and can handle low to medium attacks from insects. You need to take activity only when insects threaten a larger portion of the growing grapes at which point the leaves and the fruits are in direct harm. Insecticides can be used to fight insect infestation.</p><p>When you are growing grapes at home in your backyard, it is possible for your vineyard to attract distinct types of birds. An sufficient way to protect your grapevines is to cover them with a net. For those involved with the security of the birds, properly attached netting does not harm the birds.</p><p>You can also use a bird repellent. It uses flashing images to keep birds at bay. Birds don't like shiny things that wave at them while they're trying to land. In increasing to optic repellents, there is also an audio bird repellent. This repellent generates an ultrasonic sound beyond the detection of human hearing; but this sound drives birds away in droves. It should be noted that for some reason, larger groups of birds seem easier to scare than smaller groups.</p><p>Whatever the pest, pest supervision for those of us who have made the decision to grow grapes at home is principal and should be performed in a knowledgeable as well as a continuous manner.</p>
Use Pest operate When You Are Growing Grapes at Home
<p></p><p> <a href="http://thierry-henry-skills.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Thierry Daniel Henry Skills">Thierry Daniel Henry Skills</a> <a href="http://ricardo-quaresma-fanclub.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Ricardo Quaresma Fan Club">Ricardo Quaresma Fan Club</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-85498411614046621282012-03-26T17:47:00.001+07:002012-03-26T17:47:23.677+07:00Mesquite Trees in Arizona<strong><p>Mesquite trees belong in Arizona. As Jay Sharp, editor and author for the website <em>DesertUsa.com</em>, expresses, "the mesquites symbolize our Southwestern deserts" as much as "the Coyote, the Black-tail Jackrabbit, the Western Diamondback, scorpions, the Saguaro and prickly pear cacti." Indeed, mesquite trees in Arizona are "as blended into the life of the land as cornbread and tortillas." (Lometa)</p></strong>
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<p><strong>Perfectly Adapted to the Desert</strong></p>
<p>Mesquites are very hardy desert trees, having adapted over the centuries to life in the desert landscapes in and around Arizona. All of their corporeal characteristics ensure their survival here, along with their foliage, their bean pods, and their root systems. They grow well in full sun and high temperatures, but will also tolerate the cold while Arizona's winter (down to 0º Fahrenheit). They are sometimes found in rather high elevation and will adapt to shallow rocky soils. Agreeing to reports by the U. S. Group of Agriculture and Forest Service, a mesquite tree can live for more than two centuries. (Sharp)</p>
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<p>Mesquite trees in Arizona can survive in areas that receive very wee rainfall because of their gargantuan root system. The lateral roots of a mesquite tree reach out many times farther than its canopy. They also have very deep tap roots that can dig for a drink as deep as 175 feet below ground level, though a depth of 50 feet is more typical. So, they simultaneously have passage to water both at the very top and lowest layers of the soil.</p><p>The tiny waxy leaflets of mesquite trees preserve costly moisture by minimizing the moisture lost through transpiration. They are deciduous trees, meaning they offer perfect shade while the summer but drop their leaves and allow the sunshine through while the winter for warmth. while greatest drought, they will diminish transpiration even added by prematurely dropping their leaves.</p><p>The mesquite tree is a member of the legume house (relatives of beans and peas), which makes it especially adapted to an arid environment. Mesquite trees have the potential to fertilize themselves and surrounding plants through a symbiotic relationship with colonies of soil bacteria. The bacteria that inhabit mesquite tree roots convert or "fix" atmospheric nitrogen, manufacture available in the soil this mineral that is needful for the growth and germination of plants. Many gardeners utilize this same process to enrich soil by planting nitrogen fixing cover crops. (Sharp, Schalau)</p><p>Mesquite trees in Arizona are amazingly prolific. Their beans, encased in protective pods, are very durable. In fact, "A seed left undisturbed in its pod can stay viable for up to 40 years." (Clayton) Animals play an foremost role in the scarification of the seeds (needed for germination) and dispersal through fecal matter.</p><p><strong>Appearance</strong></p><p>Mesquite trees are easy to identify, finding approximately like a giant fern bush. They can reach a height of 30 feet, but the average mesquite tree growing wild in the Arizona desert is about half that size. Many have complicated trunks. Under the harshest of conditions, the mesquite will resemble a bush more than a tree. Their branch buildings is often very twisted and jointed, adding to their private uniqueness. In the spring and early summer, they display clusters of finger-shaped protuberances covered in tiny delicate flowers. These are followed by the formation of the long, thin bean pods, which are normally a shade of brown but vary in appearance in the middle of species. Many types of mesquite trees have thorns of some kind, which can whether be very short or monstrous in length (and all are horribly sharp!).</p><p><strong>Three Arizona Mesquite Tree Natives & Their Cousins</strong></p><p>There are about 40 mesquite varieties found worldwide, but three species are native to the state of Arizona. They grow not only in the Sonoran desert, but also in the Mojave and Chihuahuan deserts. Their range is astonishing, spanning tens of millions or acres from western Texas to California, from Mexico to southern parts of Utah. They can thrive in a great diversity of habitats as found within the range described. (Lometa, Sharp)</p><p>The three mesquite tree species native to Arizona are:</p><p><ul><li><em>Prosopis glandulosa</em> - known as the honey mesquite or Texas Mesquite. These normally have a weeping form, and can be quite pretty.</li>
<li><em>Prosopis velutina</em> - known as the Arizona mesquite or native mesquite. Also called the velvet mesquite because of the soft hairs that cover young growth. They are rather shaggy and snarled in appearance. They are favorite in nurseries, and will grow well on lawns and golf courses.</li>
<li><em>Prosopis pubescens</em> - known as the screwbean mesquite, earning its name from the spiraled or coiled shape of their seed pods.</li>
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<br>Besides these three, there are many other types of mesquite trees that grow in Arizona. Many are hybrids of the honey, velvet or screwbean mesquite, occurring mostly where the respective ranges of these native species overlap. Others are nonnative mesquite species, most originating from South America. There is the Argentine mesquite (Prosopis alba), the Chilean mesquite (Prosopis chilensis), and numerous other varieties and their hybrids. No nonnative species will be as considerable to the atmosphere here as the mesquites that are native to Arizona. For example, the Chilean mesquite does not seem as tolerant of the lower winter temperatures in Arizona.</p><p><strong>Botanical Foes</strong></p><p>Despite their many unavoidable qualities, mesquite trees are thought about by many as an invasive weed. In many countries covering of North and South America where they have been introduced they have been highly invasive and troublesome, especially in Australia.</p><p>The mesquite tree is cursed by inhabitants of our own Arizona desert as well. Cattlemen especially dislike them, but the overgrazing of their herds over the past combine of centuries has exacerbated the very qoute that they complain about, which is the mesquite tree's competition with grasses. In an area that is overgrazed, cattle not only threaten the populations of the natural grasses that compete with mesquite trees for water, but they also help the mesquites spread by eating and dispersing the seeds. As Frank Dobie puts it, "The white man sowed with over-grazing; he is now reaping thickets of mesquites that are stabbing millions of acres of land into non-productiveness." All efforts to thwart or operate this stubborn native Arizona tree have all failed and been deemed impractical or ineffective. whether by fire, herbicide use, or corporeal tree removal of assorted means, the costs and environmental side effects of trying to operate the citizen and spread of the mesquite have made it a qoute with no easy solution.</p><p>Sharp reminds us: "Uninvited guest or welcome neighbor, the mesquites belong to the desert. They evolved in the desert. They play a core role in the desert ecosystem." (Jay Sharp)</p><p><strong>Historic significance and modern Uses</strong></p><p>"Over the past several centuries, no one plant has probably played a greater and more vital role in the lives of humankind in the southwestern United States than the short stature, crooked mesquite." (excerpted from <u>The Magnificent Mesquite</u> by Ken E. Rogers.) Indeed, the mesquite trees strewn across the Southwest have really saved numerous lives. They provided the "manna from heaven" for the suffering men of the 1841 Texas Santa Fe Expedition, as recorded in the journal of George W. Kendall (also quoted by Rogers). The beans are sweet and nutritious, and more protein-rich than the soybean. (Lometa)</p><p>Another food that comes from the mesquite trees in Arizona (though not directly) is honey. The swarms of bees that are strongly attracted to the mesquite flower's nectar do more than just fill their foremost role as pollinators, after all. This, however, does not complete the list of foods derived from the mesquite. Even their sap has been utilized as sweet gum or as black dye.</p><p>'Pinole' is made by milling the pods, with or without the beans still inside. It can be used as four or, because of its sweetness, as a condiment or spice. This mesquite flour is said to be salutary for diabetics, because it is sweetened by fructose, which the body processes without insulin. This is just one example of the many digestive and nutritional advantages of the mesquite tree and other foods of the desert that has been discovered. (Lometa)</p><p>Various parts of the mesquite tree have also been used as remedies for many dissimilar ailments by the Indians and settlers of the frontier era. Examples of the ailments that the mesquite tree helped to ease or heal are: diarrhea, dysentery, colic, flesh wounds, headaches, ailing eyes, and sore throat.</p><p>The wood, bark and pods of mesquite trees are popularly used for barbecue and for other purposes. The dry wood burns slow, hot and with very wee smoke. It has an unmistakable aroma. Some insist that burning the pods along with the charcoal and wood chips make the flavor even richer. (Lometa) also for heat and for cooking, the wood has been used for the construction of Spanish missions, colonial haciendas, ranch houses and fencing. (Sharp) The Native Americans used the hard mesquite wood for spears and arrowheads, and the bark of the mesquite tree for manufacture baskets and fabrics. The thorns were used as needles. Today the wood is artistically needful for manufacture furniture or model because of its sometimes dark colors and gorgeous gnarled patterns.</p><p>Of course, mesquite trees in Arizona are useful not only to humans but also to our wildlife. Animals use the mesquite as shelter, habitat and food. In the late summer and fall, mesquite beans make up as much as 80 percent of the coyote's diet! The bean pods also can serve as fodder for livestock when the grasses are inadequate.</p><p><strong>Maintenance, Problems and Treatments</strong></p><p>Though mesquite trees in Arizona do not require much maintenance, the specimens growing around our homes could advantage from a wee extra care while unusually hot summers or times of extended drought. Sun-scorch is one of the very few problems that can plague mesquite trees planted as part of landscaping, though they are not as susceptible to this as are citrus and other <b >fruit</b> trees in Arizona. Infrequent but deep watering and occasional fertilizing will help ensure that the mesquites around our homes do not suffer a decline of condition and beauty.</p><p>During years when Arizona receives plentiful rainfall, mesquite trees do not need extra watering. However, in times of drought, the leaves will become sparse and allow more sunlight through to the branches. This is exacerbated by the need in the city to keep mesquite trees thinned out to survive storms and heavy winds, so as not to cause damage to homes and other structures. If the bark is exposed to too much intense sun, sun-scorch may occur, especially where the sunlight is most direct (i.e. On the top of horizontal branches at midday). Sun-scorch causes permanent damage to the cambium, or the sapwood layer underneath the bark. The cracked bark and dead tissues resulting from severe sun-scorch can lead to secondary infections and infestations, such as bark <b >beetles</b> and a fungus called 'sooty canker'.</p><p>Sun-scorch on mesquite trees in Arizona can be prevented but not undone. Reflective paint on the most vulnerable branches will minimize a mesquite tree's chances of being sun-damaged. Branches already affected should be removed back to a branch with salutary tissues. The best way to prevent sun-scorch is to encourage leafy growth to protect the tree during the hotter part of the year by some watering and by light fertilizing. Give the mesquite trees ammonium sulfate once in the springtime. Unless already fed by drippers or sprinklers (whether in your own or in a neighboring yard), water them deeply every two months from early spring to early fall. If the monsoons bring sufficient water, skip deep-watering while this period.</p><p>A mesquite tree that is planted in someone's yard may not be as hardy as the volunteer trees growing wild in the desert. Most likely, a nursery-grown mesquite tree planted for landscaping purposes has spent some time in a pot. The more time any tree spends in a pot, the more likely it is to become root-bound. An impaired root theory makes for a mesquite tree that not only struggles to receive what wee water they need to thrive, but also is more prone to falling over because their 'anchoring' is not as sturdy. John Begeman says, "Try as you may, it is impossible to get a wobbly tree to anchor in the ground. By putting up stronger stakes and wires, righting the tree when it falls over, [...] you are just prolonging the inevitable. [...] The best thing to do with an unstable tree is to get rid of it and start over with a salutary specimen." Please refer to his narrative entitled take off Wobbly Mesquite Trees [http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/17.29.html] for more information on the subject.</p><p>If nothing else, I hope that this narrative on mesquite trees in Arizona increases some Arizonans' appreciation for this native plant as something that undeniably belongs in this desert we call home.</p><p><em>"Primroses burn their yellow fires </em></p><p><em>Where grass and roadway meet; </em></p><p><em>Feathered and tasseled like a queen, </em></p><p><em>Is every old mesquite."</em></p><p>-J. Frank Dobie</p><p><strong>Bibliography</strong></p><p>Begeman, John. "Remove Wobbly Mesquite Trees." <u>Arid-Southwestern Gardening Information</u>. Sep 2003.</p><p>Begeman, John. "Sun-Scorched Mesquite and Palo Verde." <u>Arid-Southwestern Gardening Information</u>. Mar 2000.</p><p>Clayton, Robin N. "Velvet Mesquite Tree." <u>Arizona Highways</u>.</p><p>Dobie, Frank J. "The Mesquite." <u>Arizona Highways</u>. Nov 1941.</p><p>Lometa. "Mesquite (Thing)." <u>Everything2</u>. Aug 2002.</p><p>Shalau, Jeff. "Respect the Mesquite Tree." <u>Backyard Gardener</u>. Jan 2007.</p><p>Sharp, Jay W. "The Mesquite: Something that Belongs." <u>DesertUsa</u>.</p>
Mesquite Trees in Arizona
<p></p><p> <a href="http://50ftusbcables.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="50 Ft Usb Cables">50 Ft Usb Cables</a> <a href="http://screw-compressor-troubleshooting.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Screw Compressor Troubleshooting">Screw Compressor Troubleshooting</a> <a href="http://homemade-greek-yogurt-recipe.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Homemade Greek Yogurt Recipe">Homemade Greek Yogurt Recipe</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-3663534053758904982012-03-20T11:00:00.001+07:002012-03-20T11:00:06.525+07:00How To Plant And Care For A New Tree<strong><p>Here are some normal steps in planting and caring for a new tree. You first need to resolve what kind of fruit tree you want to plant, and where you want to plant it. If you buy a young tree from the nursery, take care when you are transporting it on the way home. Once you have gotten the tree safely to your home premises, peruse the root plate to gauge how large the hole you need to dig will be. Also, make sure you duplicate check the leaves and branches to rule out any signs of disease.</p></strong>
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<p>You should dig the hole twice as wide as the diameter of the root plate and just a exiguous less deep to allow enough room for the soil that you dug out earlier, to be put back in. Otherwise, you could end up with a large whole of soil, with which you have nowhere to put it. Before putting the soil back in, it's a good idea to sprinkle some fertilizer or compost into the hole just so that the soil gets some buffering. Your tree will also need the extra nutrients during this transitional period. When all is ready, set the tree into the hole, and spread the roots out evenly, making sure the tree is garage and secure. If necessary, prop it up for a week or so using some wooden stakes so it doesn't topple over.</p>
<p>If you do use wooden stakes, tie the tree to it with some rope, being true not to tie the rope too tightly, since the tree needs room to grow. How long the stakes should be left on? When the tree appears garage and sturdy enough to hold its position straight through most types of weather conditions, you can remove the stakes. After the stakes come off, you should mulch colse to its base. If you live in an area where there are frequent wildlife sightings, think putting up a fence colse to your tree, because some animals can strip the bark off your tree!</p>
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<p>The fact of the matter is that pests can ruin your plantings if you're not vigilant enough. Pests can be large or small, seen or unseen. Bugs, caterpillars, raccoons, moles, sure species of birds, and deer, all these can turn out to be pests, given the moment. The most destructive pests are sure kinds of bugs and moth larvae; these regularly eat the leaves of your tree, and in heavy infestations, can kill your tree within a concentrate of weeks. To help keep these pests away, keep the surroundings of the tree free of decaying plant debris, as these can breed bugs that may think your tree a much more piquant option, and accomplish quarterly inspections for any tell-tale signs of infestation. Some spraying of chemicals may be carried out, as long as you use them very sparingly, and only if the threat or infestation is serious.</p><p>To make sure that your tree all the time stays healthy, try pruning it during winter or early spring. These are the times when your tree is not as a matter of fact expanding a lot of energy to grow, and so the impact is lesser. When it comes to watering your tree, stick to once a week, although when you first plant it, you may water it once every few days, especially if the weather is hot, and the soil drainage is good. When mowing your lawn, be true not to hit it with the lawn mower; your tree may suffer irreparable damage!</p><p>If you planted a fruit tree, remember that it takes on average, 3 to 5 years before you as a matter of fact get to see any fruit. This is as a matter of fact the case with <a target="_new" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.gardeningsite.com/fruit-trees/on-tending-apple-trees/">apple trees</a>. It's not as a matter of fact such a long time to wait, and if you tend to its needs now, it will grow strong and healthy, and thus capable of bearing good fruit later on. You should not worry if your tree takes a while to bear fruit, because some years, salutary trees may not seem to bear as much fruit as other years. This is perfectly natural, and not something to be alarmed about. Just don't forget to enjoy the fruits of your labor!</p>
How To Plant And Care For A New Tree
<p></p><p> <a href="http://homemade-frozen-yogurt-recipe.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Homemade Frozen Yogurt Recipe">Homemade Frozen Yogurt Recipe</a> <a href="http://honeywell-pressure-sensors.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Honeywell Pressure Sensor">Honeywell Pressure Sensor</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-7550798681931251602012-03-14T23:00:00.001+07:002012-03-14T23:00:07.565+07:00Eocene Evolution, Extinction Unleashed by heavy Volcanic Eruptions<strong><p>The Eocene epoch (55.8 ± 0.2 to 33.9 ± 0.1 million years ago) is known as the "New Dawn" (<i>eos</i> = dawn in Greek; <i>kainos</i> = new in Greek) because of the vast transformations that occurred during its span. The atmosphere experienced considerable changes while archaic flora and fauna became extinct and modern flora and fauna emerged. Based on fossil evidence, ice core samples and geological studies, it appears that heavy volcanic eruptions were at the root of these rapid and stunning changes.</p></strong>
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<p>The temperate/sub-tropical atmosphere of the Eocene epoch was likely precipitated by seismic performance that violently tore Greenland and northwest Europe apart and it's ensuing heavy volcanic eruptions that released 2000 gigatons of methane and carbon dioxide (both potent greenhouse gases) into the oceans and atmosphere practically 55 million years ago (based on literal, dating of volcanic ash layers around Greenland and the Faeroes Islands).</p>
<p>With the lava from these volcanic eruptions forming layers up to 7 kilometers thick at the mid-Atlantic ridge and fissures around North America and Europe, the atmosphere rapidly warmed over a period of 100,000 years (the Paleocene-Eocene Thermal Maximum) triggering major extinctions and rapid mutations. At its peak, ocean temperatures reached 32° C (90° F) with tropical climates extending as far north as the 45th parallel based on the presence of <i>nypa</i> (tropical palm) fossils in Great Britain.</p>
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<p>The Green River Formation, which consists of three antique lakebeds - Lake Goslute, Lake Uinta, and Fossil Lake - that consist of parts of Colorado, Utah and Wyoming - that consist of sedimentary deposits of shale, limestone, mudstone, sandstone, and volcanic ash that hold the remains of possibly billions of fossils (fish, large vertebrates, aquatic vertebrates, invertebrates, arthropods, plants along with some well-preserved flowers with stamens still intact) fluctuating from tiny fragments to exquisite, well-preserved whole specimens, provides a microcosmic sight of the Eocene past.</p><p>The atmosphere of the Green River Formation during the Eocene epoch was moist temperate/sub-tropical. Average winter temperatures ranged from 15-20° C (59-68° F) based on the presence of crocodile fossils (crocodiles can only survive in areas of constant warmth).</p><p>Per Fossil Butte National Monument's historical guide, "a lush green forest of palms, figs, cypress, and other sub-tropical trees and shrubs [grew] nestled among the mountains during this period. Willows, beeches, oaks, maples, and ferns grew on lower slopes, [while] a spruce and fir forest [occupied] cool mountainsides." At the same time diverse and abundant animal life existed in and around the lakebeds that were then filled with warm water. "The lake shore was alive with crocodiles and turtles; insects, dog-sized horses, and early primates inhabited the land; birds and bats mastered the air."</p><p>This diversity of life extended all the way to Alaska and Greenland where lush forests of ashes, beeches, chestnuts, elms, magnolias, maples, poplars, and willows grew. Even a few palm and banana trees took root in the far north while alligators swam in the arctic. "There were no such things as ice caps. [T]he Arctic was a vast swamp; Antarctica's mountains were speckled with just a few tiny glaciers."<b>[1]</b></p><p>Then sometime around 50 million years ago, the first of hundreds of heavy volcanic eruptions began. They spanned all of Mexico and parts Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, and New Mexico. Over a period of 35 million years, the eruptions launched 400,000 cubic km into the atmosphere. As ash consisting of millions of tons of iron rained down on the oceans, it initiated a feeding frenzy of photosynthetic algae that sucked billions of tons of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. This provided long-term cooling that resulted in the formation of the polar ice caps and recession of the subtropical/temperate atmosphere that had existed over much of the Earth. Short-term cooling also occurred when the heavy volcanic performance blocked a considerable division of sunlight for decades.</p><p>Green River Formation fossil evidence (volcanic ash in its sedimentary layers) indicates that the first of these colossal eruptions took place in the middle of 50.7 and 49.7 million years ago. The shock was severe, continuing about 500,000 years. A widespread fish kill resulted and vast transformation of the diversity and type of flora and fauna (archaic forms became extinct; modern forms evolved straight through natural option and necessity) occurred likely because of the coming of a long period of cold accompanied by snowfall and ice.</p><p>This shock likely triggered co-evolution and the rapid progression towards specialization despite the appearance of an intertwined evolutionary process (especially since a monogamous connection does not exist in the middle of plant and pollinator - such relationships are diffuse tantalizing many separate types of pollinators (e.g. Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds) for an personel blossom). Thus, had such heavy volcanic performance not occurred, co-evolution, though probable for ecological reasons, likely would have been less widespread and more gradual.</p><p>Prior to the introduction of volcanic-induced cold, based on paleobotanical evidence and the fossil description of arthropods and other pollinating organisms, the following can be conclusively determined:</p><p>1. Angiosperms (flowering plants) were already the dominant type of plant-form.</p><p>2. Eocene flowers exhibited morphological features consistent with wind, water and unspecialized insect pollination. At the time, most were inconspicuous and unisexual, contribution no incentive to pollinating organisms since their sole objective was reproduction. Consequently, they did not expend power on producing nectar repositories.</p><p>3. Eocene flowers were generally small, fluctuating in size from 3-13.5 mm. Consequently, Eocene insects were generally also small - ants 3-9 mm, flies 8-9 mm, <i>Bittacus mecoptera</i> 7-8 mm, and crane flies (<i>Diptera myiomorpha</i>) 4-16 mm long.</p><p>4. The vast majority of Eocene flowers had numerous, well-developed stamen numbering in the middle of 12-15 that protruded from their floral axis. Such stamen were exposed to exploit wind and unspecialized insect pollination. Key pollinators were bees (which emerged about 30 million years after the appearance of the first angiosperms), ants (10 found in a fossil specimen that consisted of a particular 8 mm. Flower), and crane flies (20 found in a fossil specimen that consisted of a particular 3 mm. Blossom), and beetles (<i><b >Coleoptera</b></i>).</p><p>5. Most Eocene flowers had four well-developed petals. Species with 3, 5 and 6 petals also existed.</p><p>6. Most Eocene flowers exhibited a high-degree of radial symmetry with well-developed perianth parts (though a few had underdeveloped perianth parts) spaced equally apart of generally the same dimensions.</p><p>7. Eocene angiosperms exhibited a high-degree of conformity in the middle of evolution of the flower and other parts of the plant based on fossil evidence consisting of the corporal attachment of foliage and reproductive features.<b>[2]</b></p><p>8. Many herbaceous weedy angiosperms were aquatic - from lily pads; though herbaceous weedy terrestrial angiosperms also existed (supported by the presence of fossil specimens consisting of small bees fluctuating in size from 1.5-3 mm) along with terrestrial woody species such as maples, based on fossil evidence.</p><p>9. Specimens of specialized pollinators (e.g. Butterflies) were rare until practically 40 million years ago. At this time, such organisms likely subsisted on plant leaves (and possibly gymnosperm spores) and served as accidental pollinators, corroborated by paleobotanical and paleontological evidence (leaf galling and mining) especially since the earliest butterfly fossils date back 130 million years when angiosperms (many without petals) were just emerging in lakes and the fact that diets can change - Robins, which normally subsist on worms during warm seasons revert to berries in the winter, especially when the ground is frozen. This is consistent with findings that interglacial warming that occurred about 1.3 million years ago resulted in considerable creature diet changes. Thus it is likely that butterflies evolved over time to subsist on nectar with the only reminder of their past confidence on leaves occurring during their caterpillar stage.</p><p>Upon introduction of atmosphere change, initiated by the heavy volcanic eruptions, a transition towards specialization began. The following are noticeable trends based on fossil evidence:</p><p>1. Emergence of larger flowers with the appearance of <i>Rafflesiaceae</i> about 46 million years ago. When the evolution to larger size began, <i>Rafflesiaceae</i> blossoms extensive by practically 10% every million years in a series of rapid bursts (ranging in size from 2.4-189 mm 46 million years ago to practically 250-940 mm 1.3 million years ago).</p><p>2. The appearance of greater numbers of larger flowers practically 40 million years ago, likely considerable due to shorter growing seasons after the introduction of cold winters. Such a trend is supported by Green River Formation fossil specimens - one showing a specialized flower with an approximate 2-inch size and the other consisting of a well-preserved bat (<i>Icaronycteris index</i>) skeleton with food and waste still inside its body. Diagnosis of the ingested food and unspent waste exhibited ingestion of algae, pollen, and anthropods (insects). In a contradiction to co-evolution, insect size generally remained stable; it did not expand. Limitations exclusive to amber (encasing generally small insects and botanic specimens) are not applicable to fossils since such specimens have often consisted of intact dinosaurs and other large vertebrates.</p><p>3. Emergence of greater numbers of flowers with nectaries to attract pollinating organisms due to a transition to bi-sexuality and diminished confidence on wind and water pollination.</p><p>4. The appearance of dragon flies, herbivorous snout beetles (based on the presence of <i><b >Coleoptera</b> curculiondine</i> fossils) and an fullness of moth and butterfly fossils; snout beetles have long snouts while butterflies and moths have specialized mouthparts and tongues for nectar collection corroborating the emergence of flowers with nectaries.</p><p>5. Emergence of flowers with tantalizing colors (at least a hundred million years after some arthropod and avian species had independently advanced tantalizing colors for mating reasons) and aromatic scents (to attract insect pollinators), development of bilateral symmetry with fused parts (to sustain and guide public insects and birds) and emergence of fruits and large seeds (to attract mammals and birds) to optimize their visits since wind and water pollination was too imprecise for the shorter growing seasons that resulted from the heavy volcanic eruptions.</p><p>6. A allowance in diversity of bees (especially those of higher groups with advanced eusocial behavior - preparing of hierarchal roles such as queen, sterile worker, etc.) practically 30-40 million years ago, despite their generalist nature (pollinating large and small flowers alike), the dominant role they play in pollination and the vast expansion in diversity and fullness of angiosperms - someone else contradiction of co-evolution.</p><p>Based on the profound changes in atmosphere and diversity of flora and fauna that occurred during the Eocene epoch and supporting fossil and geological evidence, one can halt that Eocene evolution and extinctions were unleashed by heavy volcanic eruptions that altered the atmosphere, topography, and atmosphere of the Earth. While a direct connection in the middle of flora and fauna exists with regard to many aspects of co-evolution, indirect relationships also exist indicative that co-evolution may have been coincidental and accidental. It is likely, especially with regard to fauna, that their inability or quality to adapt to a changing landscape carefully their status - extinct or extant while the fate of flora because of their flexibility (utilization of manifold means of pollination) and resilience (ability of angiosperms to certainly affect soil composition) was more dependent on purely climactic conditions than fauna evolution or extinction despite the fact that some synchronized changes such as floral development to match the mouthparts of pollinating insects and birds had taken place.</p><p><b>______</b></p><p><b>[1]</b> Michael Reilly. <u>Ancient Volcanic Blasts Kicked Off modern Ice Ages.</u> Discovery News. 19 June 2009. 24 August 2009. <a target="_new" rel="nofollow" href="http://dsc.discovery.com/news/2009/06/19/eruptions-ice-age.html">http://dsc.discovery.com/news/2009/06/19/eruptions-ice-age.html</a></p><p><b>[2]</b> Conrad C. Labandeira. <u>Paleobiology of middle Eocene plant-insect associations from the Pacific Northwest.</u> Rocky Mountain Geology. June 2002</p><p><b><u>Additional Sources:</u></b></p><p>Charles C. Davis. <u>Floral Evolution: Dramatic Size change Was modern and Rapid in the World's Largest Flowers.</u> Current Biology. Vol. 18 No. 23. 9 December 2008.</p><p>Michael S. Engel. <u>Monophyly and widespread extinction of advanced eusocial bees: Insights from an unexpected Eocene diversity.</u> Pnas. 13 February 2001.</p>
Eocene Evolution, Extinction Unleashed by heavy Volcanic Eruptions
<p></p><p> <a href="http://htcevo3dunlocked.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="HTC Evo 3D Unlocked">HTC Evo 3D Unlocked</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-42179403461568829632012-03-09T11:00:00.001+07:002012-03-09T11:00:05.776+07:00Growing Grapes At Home: Caring, Pruning, Insects and Animals<strong><p>Growing grapes at home is basically the same process than for the large vineyard. The market vineyard is just bigger. The caring process or tending, consists of helping the vine growing in the better condition possible. Doing so will assure good productivity at the end.</p></strong>
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<p>Tending the vine is also about treating the soil correctly, watering the plants, pruning and controlling the pests. The most tedious part is pruning and pest control. But pruning or cutting branches in a sure way will help the vine grow bigger and be more productive. A hand cutter could be used for cutting the shoots from the last season and a hand saw for cutting the larger wood.</p>
<p>The vine produces new canes every year and this is on these newly shoots that the grapes will grow. This is where a home grower should be diligent. A excellent pruning job will help the vine growing with a good equilibrium between leafs and grapes. Every action should be done in a way of creating the best environment for the grape to grow strong and in abundance.</p>
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<p>Weed operate is another task to do. Clearing the weed colse to the vine will help manufacture space for the vine to breathe. It will also let the sun nourish and stimulates the plant and favors air circulation. All are foremost factors that make an optimum environment for the vine to grow big.</p><p>Tending the vine is also about controlling insects and animals such as birds and deers. Insects are in great number. Do you know the grape berry moth, grape leaf hoppers, Japanese beetles, and rose beetles. They just love your juicy grapes. The vine can endure a little, but soon insecticides should come into play to consist of the menace.</p><p>And now the birds. A flock of birds who decides to stay for a while will make serious damage to the vine. So they must be scared away with such help as optic repellents like aluminum pie plates, synthetic hawks, owls, or snakes. another way is installing nets over the rows so birds would not have entrance to the fruits.</p><p>Deer are nice animals. Gracious and agile with big tender eyes. But they eat all the time. And they love the early spring shoots, the ones that the grapes will grow on. Some tactics to scare them away are odor repellents. They are afraid of human scent, dog hair, coyote. In fact anyone that looks like predator to them.</p><p>If you find yourself the soul of a grape grower, I am sure that you are avid to find and learn more about grape growing. There is a ton of good data available on the net if you look a itsybitsy further.</p>
Growing Grapes At Home: Caring, Pruning, Insects and Animals
<p></p><p> <a href="http://debttoincomeratiofha.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Debt to Income Ratio FHA">Debt to Income Ratio FHA</a> <a href="http://chelseaclipz.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Chelsea FC Goals">Chelsea FC Goals</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-33796718354031714632012-03-03T23:00:00.001+07:002012-03-03T23:00:07.930+07:00Some intelligent Facts About Silk<strong><p>Did you know that silk was discovered by accident? A silk cocoon had accidentally fallen into a cup of hot tea. A Chinese Empress Hsi-Ling-Shih pulled the threads and discovered silk.</p></strong>
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<p>This material, a natural stock which is naturally the secretion from the mouth of a moth caterpillar. The hungry silkworm is raised today on extra beds. Today scientists have produced a extra synthetic diet that is enriched with all the nutritious that the moth needs. The sharp thing about these moths after domesticating them for thousands of years is that they have a total lack of inclination to wander far - unlike other caterpillars plus the moth's inability to fly. These moth caterpillars are produced all year long instead of relying on the yearly crop of mulberry leaves.</p>
<p>People marvel at the fact that you can get two kilometers of silk thread from just one silk cocoon. The methods of twisting, reeling and weaving of the silk have hardly changed since the earliest times. And there has been a revival of silk output in Western Europe in up-to-date years.</p>
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<p>The marriage of Princess Diana as well as the Duchess of York have revived the interest in silk. Recalling the tradition among the monarchy of Henry I in the 12th century who wore fine silks. And the ceremonial dresses of the archbishops and bishops have been made from local silks; mulberry trees were often grown within the ecclesiastical walls of abbeys and monasteries.</p><p>More recently silk was used in the manufacture of parachutes for the Royal Air Force during the Second World War and other silk went into precision instruments in the Royal Greenwich Observatories throughout the world. Another advantage to the commerce are the Jacquard loom with its punched cards, which was the forerunner of the computer and that in the early part of the 20th century we have silk to thank for experiments in generic engineering.</p>
Some intelligent Facts About Silk
<p></p><p> <a href="http://hvaccompressortroubleshooting.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="HVAC Compressor Troubleshooting">HVAC Compressor Troubleshooting</a> <a href="http://htcevo3dphone.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="HTC Evo 3D Phone">HTC Evo 3D Phone</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-6830990761200296322012-02-27T11:01:00.001+07:002012-02-27T11:01:11.395+07:00Growing Organic Pumpkins<strong><p>Pumpkin Facts</p></strong>
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<p>If you're growing pumpkins, you'll pretty much be following the same guidelines as you'd ensue for winter squash.</p>
<p>The most aged evidence of growing pumpkins dates back to around 7000 B.C. In Mexico.</p>
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<p>Farmers in the U.S. Are currently growing pumpkins at around 1.5 billion pounds per year; gardeners add many more to that.</p><p>One of the favorite usages of pumpkins is for the Halloween "holiday" when much of the populace carves goofy faces in their pumpkins and put candles in them. If you truly want to know why, Google it.</p><p>When to Plant Pumpkins</p><p>You'll need about 80 to 120 frost free days when growing pumpkins to allow them to mature.</p><p>You can begin growing your pumpkins indoors about 4 weeks before your last frost date. The soil should be about 60° to 65°F at 2 inches depth.</p><p>If you use floating row covers, you can transplant pumpkins to your organery a integrate weeks before the last improbable frost.</p><p>If you live in warmer areas you can plant your pumpkin seeds directly after the danger of frost is past, typically around the end of <b >March</b> or mid-April.</p><p>You'll want to plan to have your pumpkins mature by late summer or early fall. The larger the pumpkin, the more days they take to mature.</p><p>Where to Plant pumpkins</p><p>Pumpkins wish at the very least 6 hours of full sunlight daily.</p><p>Growing pumpkins wish organery soil that drains well and has plentifulness of organic materials blended into it.</p><p>Your soil ideally should have a pH equilibrium in the range of 5.8 to 7.5; right in the middle of that is the best pH level.</p><p>Your soil needs adequate levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, most of which are achieved with the liberal application of compost and/or composted manure, bone meal, blood meal, and the like.</p><p>Preparing Your Soil to Plant Pumpkins</p><p>Pumpkins need copious amounts of soil nutrients which can be supplied in general with compost and composted-manure.</p><p>The best way to apply your compost is to lay out where your hills will be and mix several inches of compost into about a 2 foot diameter area about a foot deep.</p><p>If you're rototilling rows, add 2 to 4 inches of compost, composted manure, etc., and rototill it to around 8 inches deep.</p><p>You can also mound the soil where your plants will be to aid in the mixing in of compost or other organic matter.</p><p>Other items you can add to your soil are alfalfa meal early in the season for nitrogen, and feather meal later in the season, ground oyster or egg shells for calcium, greensand for potassium, and kelp meal for trace nutrients.</p><p>Choosing the right Seed Varieties for your Area</p><p>If you have a small garden, it's good to note that pumpkin vines can occupy up to 100 quadrate feet.</p><p>Pumpkins, at least most varieties, are too heavy to trellis, but do grow well in larger organery areas.</p><p>Contact your county prolongation office to find out if there are coarse diseases in pumpkins in your area. If there are, get recommendations for seed varieties that are defiant to those diseases.</p><p>Diseases that afflict pumpkins are covered in detail in the latter part of this post.</p><p>Seeds and Germination</p><p>Pumpkin seeds are usually still plantable 6 years after you've purchased them from a reputable seed supplier.</p><p>Pumpkin seeds won't germinate in soil temperatures lower than 60°F or higher than 105°F. The optimum germination temp is between 86°F to 95°F.</p><p>The seedlings should emerge in about 5 days at the optimum temperature range if they are in full sunlight or under grow lights (fluorescent lights are Ok).</p><p>If you're seeding directly to your soil, you can use a black plastic mulch to heat up your soil. Fetch your plastic with soil (make sure all edges are covered with dirt), and cut holes for seeds.</p><p>Your organery soil temperature shouldn't be no lower than 60°F to 65°F to germinate your pumpkin seeds.</p><p>Starting Pumpkin Plants Indoors</p><p>Plant your pumpkin seeds in peat pots or soil blocks 3 or 4 weeks before the last frost. You can use tapered plastic pots as well, but peat pots and/or soil blocks are good options.</p><p>Use a good potting mix or starter mix to start your pumpkin seeds in. These mixes are effortlessly available at your local organery center.</p><p>If you want to originate your own potting soil mix, you can buy mixing loam soil, sphagnum peat moss, and perlite at your local organery store. Adding compost to this mix will originate an optimal starter mix.</p><p>Don't use organery soil as it has lots of weed seed, fungus spores, and bugs in it that aren't optimal for beginning your pumpkins indoors.</p><p>If you want to grow a pumpkin plant or more in containers, you'll need to get at least a 10 gallon pot.</p><p>Mix 9 gallons of potting mix, a integrate cups of alfalfa meal, half a cup of feathermeal, half a cup of powdered eggshells or oyster shells for calcium, half a cup of greensand for potassium, and a few tablespoons of kelp to cover your trace minerals.</p><p>Plant three or four seeds about 1" deep. Don't thin until the plants have at least 2 true leaves; leave the 2 best seedlings and after one is about 10 inches tall, choose the best plant and clip the other off with a scissor.</p><p>Transplanting Pumpkins to Your Garden</p><p>Before you truly transplant your pumpkins to your garden, you'll need to "harden off" your plants.</p><p>To preserve off your pumpkin seedlings, move them outside while the daytime and cut back on watering.</p><p>Your plants should have 2 or more true leaves at this stage and it will have been 3 to 4 weeks since you originally planted them.</p><p>As pumpkins prefer warm temperatures, ideally the daytime temps will reach 75° to 85°F daytime and 60° to 65°F nighttime temperatures.</p><p>However, if you live as far North as we do, you may not hit those temperatures until 2-4 weeks after transplanting, so it might be advisable to use row covers and black plastic ground cover to help your pumpkins to get a good start.</p><p>You need a minimum soil temp of 60°F to plant your squash, so plant them in an area that gets lots of sun.</p><p>If you're planting in rows, space the rows 4 to 6 feet apart and the plants about 2 to 3 feet apart in the rows. If you have a larger variety of pumpkin, you might want to plant them 3 to 4 feet apart in the rows.</p><p>When you plant your pumpkin seedlings, dig a hole large adequate to place the peat pot, soil block, or soil mass into; then pack soil in around the plant.</p><p>Make sure the soil is moist but not too wet; you shouldn't be able to pack a tight dirt clump with your hand or it's too wet.</p><p>Plastic mulch, set down a integrate of weeks prior to your improbable transplant date, is a definite help (how much of a help depends in good part on what kind of plastic mulch you use--the customary black is the least helpful).</p><p>Planting Pumpkin Seeds Directly to Your Garden</p><p>Once your soil temps have stabilized above 60°F, you can plant pumpkin seeds in your garden. You should make sure that you're past the danger of frost.</p><p>If you're hilling your pumpkin area, make your mounds about 4 to 8 feet apart and plant 4 to 6 seeds about one inch deep and about 1 inch apart in a circle or quadrate configuration.</p><p>If you're planting in rows, the rows should be 4 to 8 feet apart, and the seeds should be planted 6 to 12 inches apart.</p><p>Once the seeds have germinated, you can thin your plants to one every 18 to 36 inches, depending on whether they're larger or smaller pumpkin varieties, and what your organery soil can handle.</p><p>Getting the Most Out of Your Pumpkins</p><p>Once your plants have at least 2 true leaves, thin them to 2 or 3 plants per hill, or 18 to 36 inches apart if they're in rows.</p><p>Pumpkins have male and female flowers. Male flower will appear first, 40 to 50 days after germination. A week later female flowers will begin to emerge.</p><p>If you have plentifulness of insects, pollination should be no problem.</p><p>If you have too few insects, you'll see the female flowers begin to drop. To avoid this, you can hand pollinate by using a cotton swab or a small brush to take pollen from the male flowers and dispense it to the female flowers.</p><p>Early in the season, make sure the pumpkin plants aren't choked out by weeds.</p><p>Hand pull any weeds within six inches of the pumpkin plants, the outside hoe the weeds that are further away, and rototill weeds more than a foot away from your squash plants.</p><p>Once the vines have covered the ground, you'll not need to weed much in your pumpkin patch the rest of the season.</p><p>It's a good practice, about half-way straight through the season, to side dress your pumpkin plants (about 6 inches from the base of the plant) with compost, composted manure, or alfalfa meal.</p><p>Pruning smaller pumpkins from your plants will help the remaining pumpkins to get bigger.</p><p>It's also a good idea, if you have squash borers in your area, to mound dirt around the base of your plants to discourage them from laying eggs.</p><p><strong>Jenny's Tip -</strong> If you're growing smaller pumpkins (the size of a volleyball or smaller), you can trellis them and as the pumpkins grow, you can use pantyhose or similar to make a sling to hold them up.</p><p>Mulching & Weeding</p><p>Early in the season, black plastic may be your best mulching selection as it warms the soil and suppresses weeds.</p><p>Grass clippings or Straw, spread around your pumpkin plants, both help to throttle pesky weeds and conserve soil moisture.</p><p>You won't want to apply these types of mulches until the soils reach about 75°F as mulch tends to keep your soil cooler.</p><p>One of the biggest assets of mulching is that because pumpkins have shallow roots systems, you won't have to disturb them much by weeding.</p><p>Watering Pumpkins</p><p>When growing pumpkins, depending on your climate, they should be watered between 1 and 2 inches weekly.</p><p>If you mulch, you can use somewhat less water, but still check your soil's moisture level frequently while hot, dry spells.</p><p>If you water once per week, especially if you've mulched, that should be adequate.</p><p>Water adequate to get about 6 to 8 inches into your soil. Light watering of pumpkins is virtually useless.</p><p>If your soil is sandy, use a smaller amount of water, but water a integrate of times per week.</p><p>If your pumpkins are trellised, you may need to water a bit more than if the plants are rambling across the ground.</p><p>As with most vegetables, drip irrigation or soaker hoses are the beloved watering method. However, if you only have overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so as to cut risk of fungi and mildews.</p><p>Companion Planting and Rotation Considerations</p><p>Good companions for <a target="_new" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.onthegreenfarms.com">growing pumpkins</a> include:</p><p>Beans which supplement your organery with nitrogen that it absorbs from the air.</p><p>Pumpkins help corn roots hold moisture.</p><p>Radishes are reputed to protect your pumpkins from squash borers.</p><p>Mint is said to help control ants, aphids, flea beetles, and rodents.</p><p>Onions ward off fruit tree borers, weevils, aphids, rust flies, moles, and some root nematodes.</p><p>Marigolds and Nasturtiums repel bugs and beetles away from your squashes. They also attract bees which help to pollinate your squash flowers.</p><p>Oregano is also said to benefit squash in holding away many pests.</p><p>Bad Companions for winter squash are potatoes. Potatoes inhibit the growth in squash plants.</p><p>You don't necessarily need to rotate squash annually unless you're having issues with verticillium wilt, fusarium rot, or mosaic virus.</p><p>When to Harvest pumpkins</p><p>Like most winter squash, pumpkins are ready to harvest when the skin is hard and you can't puncture it with your fingernail.</p><p>We usually wait until the first "killing frost" to harvest our pumpkins. By this time the skins are usually a dark orange and the stems have hardened.</p><p>I all the time use a pruning shear to cut the pumpkin stem from the vine, leaving around 3 inches of stem. This helps protect the pumpkins from rotting and provides a handle for picking it up.</p><p>It's a wise custom to wear some type of cloth or leather glove when handling pumpkins as the dried stems are quite abrasive.</p><p>Handle your harvested pumpkins with care. Bruising or injuring the skin will sway the storability of pumpkins.</p><p>Storing and/or Preserving Pumpkins</p><p>Pumpkins store well straight through the winter. We've often still had pumpkins into June if they've been harvested with care.</p><p>A basement area, dark space in your garage, a crawl space under your home, or a root cellar are typically ideal locations for pumpkin storage.</p><p>If a pumpkin has been bruised or cut while harvest or when appealing into the storage area, use these first as they'll rot more quickly in storage.</p><p>You can cut out the rot spots and bake, steam, or otherwise cook pumpkins with no negative effects to the flavor or cusine of the remaining portions.</p><p>You can steam and freeze pumpkins as well as can pumpkin if you don't have an appropriate storage location.</p><p>Beware: it may be difficult to get the pumpkin hot adequate to kill all the bacteria that is recommended if canning a puree, so it may be best to cube the squash and can it in a tiny sea <b >salt</b> and water.</p><p>We have experimented with pumpkins and kept it in warmer areas of our home at 65° to 70°F straight through the winter and still had plentifulness of pumpkin to eat all winter.</p><p>Preventative and Natural Solutions to coarse Pests</p><p>Cucumber Beetles are a striped beetle that is about 3/16" in length, greenish yellow, with three black stripes running down it's back.</p><p>The spotted cucumber beetles is pretty much the same but with a dozen spots on it's back.</p><p>Regardless of what these beetles look like, they're pretty nasty pests that eat your plants and spread bacterial or verticillium wilt to your plants.</p><p>To forestall these beetles from getting to your plants, you can use row covers before flowering to keep them away from your pumpkin plants.</p><p>If the problems get too serious, you can use organic pyrethrins or organic rotenone to deal with these critters.</p><p>Another nasty pest is the squash vine borers. They typically appear about the time the vines begin to spread out across your garden. Fortunately, they don't strike butternut squash, cucumbers, watermelons, or muskmelons (cantaloupe).</p><p>Squash vine borers are an inch long or so, quite fat, and are white with a brown head.</p><p>They are the larvae of a small <b >moth</b> with dark front wings and light rear wings and a red abdomen. The moths lay eggs in the late spring or early summer near the base of your pumpkin vines.</p><p>The borers appear about a week later and drill a hole in your vine to get inside them. You'll see a small hole and green excretions below the hole. And you'll see the vine die rather suddenly.</p><p>To forestall squash vine borers from decimating your crops, first, watch for the moths (and listen...they have a buzz when they fly that's unusual for moths).</p><p>You can also use yellow-colored bowls filled with water to trap these moths; they're attracted to the color, so will fly into the bowls and drown.</p><p>At this point, it's a good idea to use row covers for about 2 weeks until the moths disappear again. Make sure you cover the edges of the row covers with dirt to seal out the moths.</p><p>If your plants begin flowering while this time, you can hand pollinate your pumpkins if necessary. Don't use insecticides as they can also kill useful insects that pollinate your crops.</p><p>If you seek the borer has created a hole before the plant wilts and dies, you can sometimes considered cut a hole in the vine and remove the borer. Cover the vine and the hole with dirt; much of the time it will send roots into the soil from the cut area.</p><p>If you find a vine that's been killed by a borer, cut back the vine and destroy it.</p><p>Aphids are also coarse pests that can be found on the undersides of your pumpkin leaves. You'll know they're there if you see leaves turning yellow and crinkling or curling.</p><p>Aphids suck the juice from your plant leaves and leave a sticky substance behind. The only beneficiary of this process is ants, who harvest the sticky sweet stuff.</p><p>The best clarification to aphids is to import ladybugs to your garden. They feed on aphids and are very productive in ridding your plants of these tiny green bugs.</p><p>Another clarification is to "wash" them off with a hose and high-pressure spray nozzle or an organic insecticidal soap.</p><p>Squash Bugs are probably the most prevalent pest but are somewhat easier to control than borers. They suck the sap from your pumpkin plant leaves, leaving them initially speckled; then the leaves wither and die.</p><p>Controlling squash bugs is easier if your soil has lots of nutrients and your plants are healthy.</p><p>Get rid of anyone around your garden, such as old boards or anyone they can hide under while the winter.</p><p>It also helps to rototill or turn under your organery in the fall to eliminate places these bugs like to hide in.</p><p>To get rid of the bugs, hand-picking usually works in a organery as it's not so large as to take more than an hour or two per week for a few weeks in the summer.</p><p>When you pick these bugs and nymphs, have a pail of soapy water to drop them into...the soap breaks the capillary activity of water so the bugs immediately sink and drown in the water.</p><p>If you find eggs attached to the underside of leaves or stems, naturally crush the eggs.</p><p>Lay a board or two in your pumpkin patch overnight...the bugs will congregate under the boards at night. In the morning, lift the board and capture the bugs and drop them into the soapy water pail.</p><p>Organic compounds such as rotenone and pyrethrins are also productive if you have a heavy infestation of these varmints.</p><p>Environmental Factors</p><p>Blossom-end rot causes your fruit to invent a black rot on the end of the squash. Hot weather/lack of water, and a calcium deficiency, are the main cause of the rot. It can be prevented by production sure your plants have water and if necessary, add lime to the soil before watering.</p><p>Downy mildew is a leaf disease and is caused by a fungus with a long Latin name. If you truly want to know the name, let me know and I'll copy and paste it in a reply.</p><p>This mildew usually isn't a problem unless you have a cold spell in the 45° to 55°F range for a month or longer.</p><p>The mildew shows up initially as yellow patches on your squash plant's leaves, and then turns brown or tan with gray or white downy fuzz below it. Then it progresses to black patches and the leaves and sometimes the plants shrivel up and die.</p><p>To forestall downy mildew, grow squash varieties that are defiant to it.</p><p>Also, allow space between your plants so they don't stay wet too long.</p><p>And if the conditions appear convenient for the disease to appear (i.e. A long cool and rainy spell), spray your leaves with a compost tea. To make the tea, put compost in a pail and fill it with water; when it settles out, fill your sprayer with the brownish water and spray your plants leaves with it.</p><p>Powdery mildew is another mildew that can sway your winter squash plants, but looks entirely different. It's whitish and powdery and grows on squash leaves and stems.</p><p>It is also caused by wetness, but warmth and humidity rather than cool weather and rain.</p><p>If the leaves are infected, they'll usually die. If the infections is severe, it can kill the whole plant.</p><p>If you are able to, avoid overhead watering. If not, water early in the morning so the plants can dry out by noon or so.</p><p>If you keep insect pests under control and spray your vines and leaves with a compost tea clarification or a baking soda solution, you most likely won't have an issue with this disease.</p><p>Other solutions include organic sulphur sprays or a weak clarification of milk and water (9:1).</p><p>If you spot any of this mildew, destroy your vines at the end of the season and rotate your winter squash to a new area next gardening season.</p><p>You can also buy seed varieties that are defiant to fungi such as downy and powdery mildews.</p><p>Another fungus with a long Latin name causes a blight called "black rot." Black rot is found mostly in warmer and more humid climates such as the Southeastern U.S., but can also show up in winter squash and pumpkins in the cooler climates.</p><p>Black rot is a gummy blight that attacks the stems and leaves of squash plants. It is usually brought on by too much moisture.</p><p>Black rot will survive on dry plant matter or in the soil. It will live there for over a year.</p><p>It lives on dry plant material or in the soil, where it can survive for more than a year. It is vital to rotate your squash crops to a new area if this blight hits your plants.</p><p>To avoid black rot, irrigation should be managed to minimize free moisture on leaf surfaces, and a minimum two-year rotation cycle is a must.</p><p>Again, overhead watering should be avoided, but if you have no choice, water early in the day.</p><p>You can also make an organic fungicide spray using bicarbonate of soda (baking soda). In a gallon of water add a integrate drops of organic olive oil, a integrate drops of environmentally-friendly liquid soap, and 3 tablespoons of baking soda. Spray it on your squash leaves to effectively control all of the above fungi.</p><p>Fusarium fruit rot is a soil-borne fungus that can afflict your pumpkin crop.</p><p>You can see this problem in slightly sunken lesions with purplish-red margins. A white fungal growth will invent often in the center of the lesions. It can spread with watering.</p><p>Crop rotation and planting defiant varieties are the best defense against fusarium fruit rot.</p><p>Straw mulch can help cut fruit rot by preventing pumpkins from contacting the soil directly.</p><p>Don't store pumpkins showing the described symptoms as they'll rot quickly in storage.</p><p>Angular leaf spot is a bacterial infections that creates spots that have a water-logged appearance and are guided by the leaf veins, giving them an angular appearance.</p><p>Warm, wet weather is a promoter of this infection, and if things dry out, the holes created by this disease may be outgrown.</p><p>Prevention of Als starts with clean seeds and defiant varieties. Also, don't crowd your plants as moisture creates the condition in which this disease thrives.</p><p>If you have only overhead watering, do it in the morning. Spray your plants with the homemade fungicide mentioned above if symptoms appear.</p><p>Just when you belief it was safe to grow pumpkins, along comes the mosaic virus.</p><p>Mosaic is spread by aphids mostly. Your pumpkins leaves will invent irregularly, both in shape and size, and the fruit may have the same symptoms.</p><p>Preventing aphids from infecting your plants with row covers may be the best option. Diatomaceous Earth also works well, but only if it remains powdery (not wet).</p><p>You might think by this point we'd have nothing else, truly nothing else that could sway your pumpkin crop, but unfortunately we still need to mention bacterial wilt.</p><p>Bacterial wilt goes back to your cucumber beetles; if they're around when your pumpkin seedlings emerge, they may infect your plants early.</p><p>Bacterial will appears when the leaves start to wilt into an umbrella-shaped appearance, then the whole plant collapses and dies.</p><p>As you might imagine, controlling the cucumber beetles will control bacterial wilt, so if your growing your pumpkins organically, row covers are the most productive prevention early in the season.</p><p>Most fungal infections can be controlled by planting defiant varieties, rotating your crops, and using the homemade spray mentioned earlier.</p><p>Everything else can usually be handled by controlling the bugs with row covers, diatomaceous earth, and pyrethrins if it gets serious.</p>
Growing Organic Pumpkins
<p></p><p> <a href="http://debttovalueratio.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Debt to Value Ratio">Debt to Value Ratio</a> <a href="http://homemade-chocolate-fudge.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Homemade Chocolate Fudge">Homemade Chocolate Fudge</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-66694484724896353542012-02-21T23:00:00.001+07:002012-02-21T23:00:11.129+07:00Calm and Stillwaters - Fishing at Close Range<strong><p>On quiet, overgrown river stretches, where a more orthodox arrival is impossible, dapping is a method of fishing tor chub in which you dispose for a natural bait to rest just on the exterior film, with no surplus line to cause alarm. It is a particularly good method to use under overhanging trees, where the chub come to be used to insects of all types falling into the water. You can use deadbaits such as moths and caterpillars and enumerate life to them by slowly twitching the line.</p></strong>
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<p>A similar process is fishing the margins of stillwaters for carp with crust. There the angler sits well back from the water's edge so that the rod just protrudes from the bankside cover. slowly lower the baited hook so that it just breaks the exterior film, and then stay alert, with slack line in your hand. Takes can be sudden and violent and these forms of close-range exterior fishing are very arresting indeed. As this fishing will ordinarily be close to snags, it pays to step up the gear, but this is not detrimental as no line will be on the exterior anyway, the bait being all the fish sees.</p>
<p>Away from the margins of stillwaters, unfettered exterior baits are still viable, but the additional out you wish to fish, the more casting weight you will want and the more troublesome any wind will become. An exception to this may be among dense lily pads, where the pads themselves both act as a brake against wind activity and help to disguise the line. Good casting weight is in case,granted by high-protein floaters which, despite; being buoyant, are quite dense. A terrific presentation is to hold a chunk of floater or crust hard against a lily pad with the line over it, which then looks fully natural.</p>
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<p>Totally unfettered baits can also be used at greater range in stillwaters, taking benefit of any offshore breeze by drifting baits down the wind lanes. As with fishing rivers with trout pellets for chub, the longer you spend prebaiting these wind lanes with free offerings, say for carp or rudd, the greater will be the chances of success when they are followed by a hook bait. One ploy to use when exterior fishing for carp in this way, when a good breeze is blowing over a bay and the windward bank has dense rushy margins, is drifting freebies down wind. These will then pile up against the rushes leading, at last to a good estimate of carp feeding there furiously.</p><p>In exactly the same way as river fishing, this drifting of freebies demands the use of greased line to fish properly. Carp will not tolerate any unnatural movement of the bait.</p>
Calm and Stillwaters - Fishing at Close Range
<p></p><p> <a href="http://regulated-high-voltage-power-supply.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Regulated High Voltage Power Supply">Regulated High Voltage Power Supply</a> <a href="http://marseille-goals-clips.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Olympique de Marseille Blog">Olympique de Marseille Blog</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-91605888823918896872012-02-16T11:00:00.001+07:002012-02-16T11:00:14.828+07:00insight Dog Worm medicine<strong><p>If you think your dog may have some form of worms or perhaps you've just come back from the vet confirming this suspicion, you might be feeling a bit worried. It's general to feel a exiguous anxiety after discovering your dog is sick. After all, worms are a hanger-on and are capable of killing their host. Dog worms are not a threat to be taken lightly.</p></strong>
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<p>Let me just say, it's very commendable that you've taken the time to research the subject. A dog owner who takes the time to research their dog's health has a lucky dog for a pet.</p>
<p>Now...about those worms...</p>
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<p>I'm happy to say that your fears are about to be lifted. This article will give you abundance of relief from your worry over your dog's worms by explaining their symptoms, effects and how dog worm treatment will flush out the qoute and get your best friend happy and salutary in no time flat.</p><p>Below I'll be explaining the three most tasteless worm infestations.</p><p>When you understand how this hanger-on works, it makes fighting them more sufficient and increases the chances of a clear outcome. Additionally, by learning about dog worms here, you'll have some knowledge as to how to forestall them the next time around.</p><p>There are 5 dissimilar types of worms that can threaten your dog. They are heartworms, hookworms, roundworms, tapeworms and whipworms. They're all parasites, feeding off the nutrients and blood of your dog, multiplying within his body.</p><p>Additionally, these worms can be contracted to humans. If you have a dog with worms, make sure you wash your hands Very frequently to avoid infection.</p><p>The symptoms of dog worms are relatively similar in each of the 5 dissimilar types of infestations.</p><p><u><strong>The Symptoms: </strong></u></p><p><ul><li>loss of weight</li>
<li>loss of appetite</li>
<li>pot-belly appearance</li>
<li>cough</li>
<li>fatigue</li>
<li>diarrhea</li>
<li>vomiting</li></ul></p><p>Here are the three most tasteless dog worm infestations.</p><p><strong>Roundworms: </strong> are the most tasteless worm found in dogs. Their eggs live in fecal matter, decaying meat from rodents or wildlife and in the soil. Your dog can undoubtedly pick them up by licking any of the mentioned specimens. Also, roundworms are commonly passed down from mothers to their puppies through milk.</p><p>When the eggs hatch, these worms can grow up to 7 inches in your dog's stomach and from there, hatch more eggs. You may notice them in your dog's stool or vomit. They look like white spaghetti strings. Also, a pot belly is tasteless in dogs with roundworms. This is because the worms live in the dog's digestive tract, causing irritation.</p><p>The biggest threat with roundworms is that they can multiple over and over so many times that they generate an obstruction in your dog's digestive tract which finally leads to death.</p><p><strong>Hookworms: </strong>okay, just on a personal note...I think these are the grossest. Hookworms have teeth and also live in your dog's intestine while infestation. The inequity any way is that rather than nutrients, hookworms live off blood in your dogs body. Their giveaway is when you find blood in your dog's stool...especially diarrhea.</p><p>They can kill your dog by causing anemia and sometimes internal bleeding. Time is of the essence if you find blood in your dog's stool, so don't wait.</p><p><strong>Heartworms: </strong>these worms are contracted through mosquitos while the warm summer months. The mosquitos suck blood from an infected dog and pass along the worms to another dog. These worms are obviously tiny. They make their way to your dog's heart and start to feed off the muscle tissue.</p><p>This can finally lead to congenitive heart failure if left untreated.</p><p>Heartworms are treated in a deterrent way with most young pups. They go on heartworm treatment at an early age to avoid the disease altogether.</p><p>In all three tasteless dog worm cases, treatment will normally flush out the qoute before things get out of hand. That is, of course, if you catch the qoute early enough. That's why reading articles like these are so important. By having the knowledge ahead of time you forestall the health qoute from happening. Everyone knows preventions is the best medicine.</p>
insight Dog Worm medicine
<p></p><p> <a href="http://pic-robotics-beginners.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="PIC Robotics Beginners">PIC Robotics Beginners</a> <a href="http://best-way-to-kill-ants.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Best Way to Kill Ants">Best Way to Kill Ants</a> <a href="http://electric-motors-and-drives.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Electric Motors and Drives">Electric Motors and Drives</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-352494837603446052012-02-10T23:01:00.001+07:002012-02-10T23:01:10.579+07:00development Use Of Insect Netting For separate Purposes<strong><p>Porches of today are reinvented by homeowners into maximized livable spaces outside. With patios becoming a sensation, surface fun in the comforts of shielded spaces is a general sight in most abodes. Breaking the institution of orchad settings, backdoor patches are changed into ideal spaces for leisure and pleasant dialogues. Habitancy nowadays can step out from the confines of their residence. Blissful air touch is now inherent without the worry of getting rain wet nor basked bitterly under the sun's gleam. Then again, vexatious pests seldom get in the way of pleasurable moments in alfresco spaces. The unsightly appeal and restive appeal of mosquitoes, bugs and flies are beyond nuisance; insects, bats, birds and other agrarian organisms are inherent transporters of infectious diseases, thus vindicating the rising need for insect netting.</p></strong>
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<p>Insect netting's purpose of security is not only applicable in open-air rooms; they are also helpful in sheltering agronomic crops. For homeowners who favor orchad slots over outdoor spaces, the challenge of keeping exasperating insects is of equal importance. Determined insects that consist of flies, beetles, wasps and moths are one of the important adversaries of agriculturists. More often, monetary effects of agricultural pursuits are harmfully affected by crop loss brought about by insects. There is admittedly no possibility to appreciate a rewarding harvest with this matter not being dealt with. Fight them using the established, non-toxic means of fitting canopies and insect netting. By doing so, you are keeping bugs at a maximum expanse wherein destroying of crops is not feasible.</p>
<p>Other than bugs, birds could bring the same destruction to fruit, vegetables and flower plantations. Accumulated hundreds of million dollars is said to have been gone through by nations who were monetarily attacked by the loss of birds on crops. Success in the use of an assortment of techniques to fight bird infiltration in crops have noted to be admittedly minute despite a amount of attempts. The commerce of agriculture which was incalculably injured by irrepressible Aves specie destruction to crops and this drove horticulture experts to seek practices that could effectually deal with the problem.</p>
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<p>Just like their other appearances, bats are Determined antiheros in plant fields. Bat-plant encounters are undeterred through scaring methodologies of control, leaving insect netting as the most efficacious method.</p><p>Minute insects and other annoying organisms would all the time be an upfront concern for homeowners and agriculturists alike. Farming specialists should seek right methods to deal with accurate issues of distinct environments and to evade definite species. For domestic purpose of satisfying alfresco meetings with house and peers, a <a target="_new" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.mosquitocurtains.com/patios/screened-patio.html">screened patio</a> will work best.</p>
development Use Of Insect Netting For separate Purposes
<p></p><p> <a href="http://hydraulic-pressure-sensor.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Hydraulic Pressure Sensor">Hydraulic Pressure Sensor</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-92222953360979116262012-02-05T11:00:00.001+07:002012-02-05T11:00:05.459+07:00Dream Dictionary - Find Out What Your Dreams Are Telling You<strong><p><b>Dictionary for Your Dreams</b></p></strong>
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<p>A dream can hold meanings to a man to help search the underlying workings of the subconscious mind. You will sometimes find objects, animals, persons or places in a dream and you wonder if it carries a extra meaning or if it can mean a future of good fortune or years of misery. Do we have a good reference for this purpose? Yes, we absolutely do. Check out Dream Dictionary to see what things or objects can hold for you.</p>
<img src="" alt="" title="Dream Dictionary - Find Out What Your Dreams Are Telling You">
<p>Wonder no more about things you see in a dream and find out what they mean in this easy to read ebook. Good omens in life can be gathered when you see the following items in your dreams: apples, cheese, eggs, fishes, playing card, a white rabbit, spider, swan, umbrella, whiskey and wine. On the other hand, you may not want to see some things in your dream as it brings negative meaning to one's life such as vinegar, stapler, snake, scissors, any reptile, black rabbit, palace, mustard, <b >monkey</b>, mirror, kiss, empty house, gun, <b >grasshopper</b>, goat, empty glass, winning in gambling, calendar, low flying birds, crab, and an empty barrel.</p>
<p>You will find more things with meanings on this book and see to what extent your dream can hold for you. You must remember that dreams mirror your mind, body and spirit. It gives you an comprehension to yourself and provides a means of exploration of one's deepest thoughts and secrets.</p><p><b>Worth It</b></p><p>Find a worthwhile read in Dream Dictionary where you will finally find the key to your dreams and what they mean at a very affordable price. Find out for yourself what your dream can be trying to tell you all this time. It sure beats going to a clairvoyant and find some pronouncements that have exiguous prophetic meaning to you. Also, it has become impractical to seek one for each dream that you may encounter from time to time.</p><p>Use this book to open up your mind to your dreams and what you mind could be telling you. Start listening to your subconscious and get the most out of each dream as you deep dive into all inherent meanings of these dreams as they come. Take what this ebook offers you - a wealth of information that can help you understand your whole being and find a relationship with your mind and spirit via dreams, all yours to unlock now.</p>
Dream Dictionary - Find Out What Your Dreams Are Telling You
<p></p><p> <a href="http://loantovalueratiodefinition.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Loan to Value Ratio Definition">Loan to Value Ratio Definition</a> <a href="http://heat-pump-compressor-troubleshooting.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Heat Pump Compressor Troubleshooting">Heat Pump Compressor Troubleshooting</a> <a href="http://free-host-reviews.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Free File Host and Image Host">Free File Host and Image Host</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-40950374158966834192012-01-08T07:15:00.001+07:002012-01-08T07:15:06.566+07:00How to protect Yourself from Mosquito Bites<strong><p>In the summertime, we must be very cautious to avoid <b >mosquito</b> bites and <b >mosquito</b>-borne diseases such as the West Nile Virus, malaria, yellow fever, and dengue fever. When temperatures begin rising colse to spring and summer, mosquitoes begin to hatch and look for food. Female mosquitoes must feed on blood to survive and to construct <b >eggs</b>, while non-biting male mosquitoes prefer nectar and plant juices.</p></strong>
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<p>Have you ever wondered why <b >mosquito</b> bites itch and how mosquitoes change diseases to us? When a <b >mosquito</b> finds you, it uses chemical sensors in its nose, called a proboscis, to detect blood. When the <b >mosquito</b> bites, it uses two of its mouths to cut through tissue. Then other mouth continuously injects saliva into you while other mouth quickly draws blood. A <b >mosquito</b> can rapidly draw about four times its weight in blood, which luckily for us is only about one-millionth of our blood. The saliva works as an anticoagulant, which creates an easy flow of blood from you to the <b >mosquito</b> and prevents you from noticing the bite.</p>
<h2>Mosquito Eggs</h2>
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<p>Unfortunately, it is this saliva that causes diseases and the itching afterwards. Our bodies react to the saliva with a histamine response. This makes the skin colse to the bite itch. Although the itching is irritating, in some ways this reaction is a good thing because it causes us to notice the bite. This can be helpful if we construct flu symptoms shortly after because we can associate the bite with the flu, and can then see a doctor to see if we have a <b >mosquito</b>-borne illness.</p>
<p>So how do you safe yourself from a <b >mosquito</b> bite? One way is to wear a <a target="_new" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.concealmentindustries.com/catalog"><b >mosquito</b> hat</a> to safe your face and neck without using harsh chemicals. These hats come in varied styles, including a baseball cap and bucket hat, but contain fine mesh netting tucked in the crown. When you need the protection, you pull the very descriptive netting out from the secret pocket in the crown of the hat, pull it down to your collarbone, and cinch it tight to keep all biting bugs out. Also, you can wear light colored clothing because mosquitoes are more attracted to darker colors.</p><p>Another safety tool is chemical or organic <b >mosquito</b> repellants. These repellants block the sensing mechanisms that mosquitoes have in their antennae to detect hosts through carbon dioxide, moisture, and heat. Mosquitoes get lost in the flight to us with these repellants. Deet is one of the strongest repellants. It is especially useful in jungle and heavily forested areas.</p><p>Besides primary chemical repellants, oils have been shown to repel mosquitoes for a few hours as well. These oils contain citronella, geranium, peppermint, rosemary, cedarwood, lavender, and the most effective--catnip oil. Although these oils won't last as long as repellants like Deet, they can repel mosquitoes for about 2 to 3 hours.</p><p>Another tip is to be more cautious during the early morning hours colse to sunrise and after the sunset. Mosquitoes like to come out when the temperature is colse to 45 to 68 degrees. Be especially cautious if you live near large bodies of water, such as a lake, or if you live in humid or marshy areas where mosquitoes breed.</p><p>If you do happen to get bit, you can stop the itching by rubbing the inside of a banana skin on the bite. Other solutions contain using Vicks vapor rub, aloe vera, baking soda, lemon juice, mint toothpaste, or pharmacy antihistamines. If you don't have any of these items, you can use your saliva or stab an X in the bite with your nail or sharp object to stop the itching for up to 8 hours. Be aware that if you covenant a disease from the bite, it may take a few hours or even a few weeks for symptoms to appear.</p><p>Hopefully this guide will help keep you free from <b >mosquito</b> bites during the warm weather so you can enjoy the outdoors.</p>
How to protect Yourself from Mosquito Bites
<p></p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-82377109874470763782011-12-28T06:15:00.001+07:002011-12-28T06:15:04.686+07:00The Banana-Eating Beetles<strong><p>Who are those strange-looking nosey fellows discussing the examine of bananas? Why, of course, every naturalist knows them, they are the famous Hercules <b >beetles</b> (Dynastes hercules.) Many have marveled at their grotesque form, and there are few museums whose insect collections do not hold forever a amount of these strange insects. Although they may be seen there, and bought in the dried state from many dealers, there are few who have had the chance to study them under natural conditions, where they are reared and where they live their blundering lives and where they die.</p></strong>
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<p>Such absurd things have been said of them, and of the uses of their lobster-like "claws," that it would seem that very few have visited the life haunts of these creatures. In Ober's exquisite book. "Camps In The Caribbees," there is an amusing reference to the Hercules <b >beetle</b>. It states that the "claws" are used to saw off branches or twigs of sure trees. According to the natives that Ober interviewed, the <b >beetle</b> comes to a sure twig and there fastens its long pincers about the wood. It then spreads its powerful wings and commences to fly with great rapidity colse to the twig, ultimately sawing it off entirely at the desired spot!</p>
<h2>Fruit Beetle</h2>
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<p>Why such a policy should be followed, the natives did not state and it is not likely that there is any truth in this strange explanation. Sap is indeed the natural food of the <b >beetles</b>, which will come to wounded and bleeding trees of sure species. It happens that I am host to four Hercules <b >beetles</b>. I brought them all the way from Dominica, their home, straight through the chill of a very cold landing in New York, and to my own home. They are safe and sound at this writing and very much alive. I have found that in bringing home animals of all kinds, that it is better to keep them a itsybitsy hungry than overloaded. Under such conditions they stand a much better chance of surviving.</p>
<p>Once established in their new home, they in case,granted me with a problem, that of feeding. Ripe bananas solved the problem. At first this diet appeared strange to them and they would have none of it. In a few days, however, the pangs of hunger were too sharp and they tried the sweet <b >fruit</b>. One taste was all that they needed, and from then on there was no issue with their menu. How they will eat! I feed them every three days, or, indeed every six days. It takes the four <b >beetles</b> three days to inventory for one banana. This feast is followed by three days without food, and then they are given someone else <b >fruit</b>. Although their table manners are not of the best and they smear themselves fully and horribly while the repast, they come out of their gorge quite slick and clean, eating the particles that remain clinging to one another, just as puppies lick the milk from each others muzzles.</p>
The Banana-Eating Beetles
<p></p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-75582365588604023852011-12-17T05:30:00.001+07:002011-12-17T05:30:06.156+07:00Goldfish Tips - looking Out The Gender of Your Goldfish<strong><p>Boy or Girl?</p></strong>
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<p>How can you tell either your <b >Goldfish</b> is male or female? You might want to know because you want to breed them, or give them the right name before Jack turns out to be the mother <b >Goldfish</b>! Here are some clues that might help you sort out the <b >Goldfish</b> boys from the <b >Goldfish</b> girls:</p>
<h2>Goldfish</h2>
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<p>* The female <b >Goldfish</b> are slightly bigger than the males and look even heavier in the abdomen when they are full of eggs.</p>
<p>* Male <b >Goldfish</b> fabricate white spots on their gills and pectoral called "breeding tubercles" while spawning time.</p><p>* Males have midline ridges on their undersides starting from the back of their pelvic fins and ending at their vent opening. This highlight can be absent or smaller in females.</p><p>* Males have firm abdomen while in females; the area between the pelvic fins and the anal fins is more pliable.</p><p>* Male <b >Goldfish</b> have longer and pointed pectorals as well as stiff fin ray, while females have more rounded pectorals and shorter, finer front fin rays.</p><p>* Male <b >goldfish</b> have smaller and more oval anal openings and the anal fins are not as thick as that of the female <b >goldfish</b> who has a larger and rounder anal opportunity with a miniature protrude. The anal fin is also thicker.</p><p>* The spawning time is the easiest time to distinguish the boys from the girls. The female opportunity will look larger and more swollen as the eggs begin to ripen. She would look big and heavier. Since fish reproduce straight through external fertilization, you can make out when a male is ready by the white breeding tubercles and you can honestly push out the milt straight through his ventral opportunity by running a gentle finger along his sides.</p><p>* There is one more obvious, but kind of time taking way to make out which one of your fish is male and female. Find out who is chasing who - the chaser will be the male and the chased and tired out one will be the female! It's the natural tendency on part of the male <b >goldfish</b> to chase and nudge at a female's rear part.</p><p>Dane Stanton - www.<b >goldfish</b>-secrets.com [http://www.<b >goldfish</b>-secrets.com]</p>
Goldfish Tips - looking Out The Gender of Your Goldfish
<p></p><p> <a href="http://125-ltv-home-loan.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="125 Ltv Home Loan">125 Ltv Home Loan</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-18207501485828420402011-12-13T21:34:00.001+07:002011-12-13T21:34:41.559+07:00explore Success - Gain indispensable understanding With Client Feedback<strong><p>Have you ever wondered what your customers think about you? There's an easy way to find out -- just ask them! originate a straightforward client explore form, give them a presume to fill it out, and reap the rewards of great insight through direct feedback.</p></strong>
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<p>First off, consider the benefits of sending a survey:</p>
<h2>Monkey Grasshopper</h2>
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<p>- You'll know your core company strengths
<br>- You'll see your areas for improvement
<br>- You may explore supplementary wage streams, such as new services or products to offer
<br>- You can use the definite comments as testimonials on your marketing materials</p>
<p>Pondering Questions</p><p>Take some time to brainstorm the types of questions (and answers) that would be most useful to you. Maybe you'd have clients rate their pleasure levels with your (or your staff members') organizing expertise, skill transfer, and stock knowledge. Likely you'll want to gauge clients' views of your pricing structure and value received. Maybe you want to know the benefits they received by working with you.</p><p>For some of the questions, use a ratings scale (such as 1 - 10, poor to excellent, etc.) For others, leave the response area open-ended. For example, asking "What areas could we improve?," "What did you like best about working with us?" and "What supplementary services do you wish we offered?" will supply business-improving information.</p><p>Make the explore easy for clients to complete. Keep it short -- not longer than one page or 10 questions. Make sure it's easy to read and has plentifulness of space for writing comments. Keep wording short and to the point. And give them an incentive for their time and effort, such as entering their names in a monthly drawing for a gift card, floral bouquet, or your favorite organizing product. (Be sure to consist of a space for respondents' names so you can perceive the winner.)</p><p>Creating The Survey</p><p>You can mail (or leave with them at the end of your job) a hard-copy survey. (Remember to supply a self-addressed stamped envelope for easy return.) Or, consider a free online explore tool such as explore <b >Monkey</b> (surveymonkey.com). Using your web browser, you can originate a pro survey, selecting from over a dozen types of questions (multiple choice, rating scales, drop-down menus, and open-ended). Up to 10 questions and 100 responses per explore are allowed under this free assistance option. Naturally email the explore link to your clients and wait for their responses. You can view your results as they are collected, and see neat graphs, charts, and personel responses.</p><p>Using The Results</p><p>Once you've collected your explore results, take note of the definite responses. Keep it up and use those strengths to sell your services. Don't feel insecure as you read any negative feedback. These are your areas for thoughtful notice and revision and will make your company stronger. If you explore areas for expansion and growth, consider consuming in new directions! conferrence buyer feedback takes a small effort, but your company will advantage immensely.</p>
explore Success - Gain indispensable understanding With Client Feedback
<p></p><p> <a href="http://htcevo3dphone.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="HTC Evo 3D Phone">HTC Evo 3D Phone</a> <a href="http://heating-and-cooling-services.blogspot.com" rel="dofollow" title="Heating and Cooling Services">Heating and Cooling Services</a> </p>goozeedzeedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12637490239456986020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-85796189406541710872011-08-21T23:14:00.000+07:002011-08-21T23:14:28.377+07:00"Grapevine Beetle"Grapevine beetles (<i>Pelidnota punctata</i>) are one of many "junebugs" that are found throughout Missouri. These beetles occur throughout the eastern portion of the United States. They are sometimes called the Spotted June Beetle because of the visible black spots on their elytra. Unlike many of the June beetles that call Missouri home that are drab brown, this beetle is reddish-golden in color and actually quite beautiful. The one pictured here to the right was found on a sandy beach along the Platte River, It had somehow flipped onto its back and could not right itself. I noticed it struggling in the sand and helped it back onto its legs. The little beetle was covered in wet sand that had hardened onto its head and wings. I tried scraping it off but it was adhered like concrete. I spent a few minutes photographing it before leaving it alone. <br />
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<div style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4LZ7qTp5iQ1-C1UEpoxhJdzzfNWQ_E2Y0UInBL7lj1oL3apvc1-ixtpiCxGjVXtLUfZlA7c2bs9nq6qYnUyeFWCy27_sezl_tGOa-lDQKITCtgLV7jKe9H9NQVGHNXeU2rHpzNCAp_zY/s1600/junebug5rews.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4LZ7qTp5iQ1-C1UEpoxhJdzzfNWQ_E2Y0UInBL7lj1oL3apvc1-ixtpiCxGjVXtLUfZlA7c2bs9nq6qYnUyeFWCy27_sezl_tGOa-lDQKITCtgLV7jKe9H9NQVGHNXeU2rHpzNCAp_zY/s320/junebug5rews.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Unlike most Junebugs that feed on the roots of grasses and turf as grubs, this species feeds on the roots of trees. As adults they feed on the foliage and fruit of grapevines. In large numbers this feeding habit could damage grapevines and the fruit. Normally though you will only see a few beetles, so feeding damage is minimal. Females will lay their eggs on rotting stumps or decaying trees. When the eggs hatch the young grubs must burrow into the soil and find the root system they will feed on. Once they reach full size they will create a pupation chamber to finish their development. The pupal stage lasts all winter with the adult beetles emerging the following June. There is only one generation per year.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-65704444337741312052011-06-26T21:41:00.000+07:002011-06-26T21:41:57.694+07:00Ambrosia Leaf Beetle<div style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY1OCr01aO4q3kJ4_d1XJicEZqDEhWKcqcepTbZTTb6pOZC4QCgwZoKYDQa9wcMcuNSIkryEgQPgplFJqrUDM0ftW85g_TjDGTQYWPPj1QPj_VNp5g-GkuZl9m3aWzpavET2h5BTIHuwg/s1600/leaf+beetle34res.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY1OCr01aO4q3kJ4_d1XJicEZqDEhWKcqcepTbZTTb6pOZC4QCgwZoKYDQa9wcMcuNSIkryEgQPgplFJqrUDM0ftW85g_TjDGTQYWPPj1QPj_VNp5g-GkuZl9m3aWzpavET2h5BTIHuwg/s400/leaf+beetle34res.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Questo coleottero adorabile è una foglia coleottero chiamato Ragweed Leaf Beetle (Calligrapha bidenticola). Essi sono nativi degli Stati Uniti orientali e si trovano in aree dove l'ambrosia è abbondante. Chiunque con allergie stagionali è ad apprezzare le abitudini alimentari di questo coleottero. Questi insetti sono piccoli a meno di 3 / 8 di pollice e sarebbe facilmente trascurata. Alcuni degli insetti più belli sono quelli che sono i più facili da trascurare.<br />
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Ci sono 38 specie in Nord America, nel Calligrapha genere, e molti di loro sono quasi identiche, che possono rendere difficile l'identificazione. Inizialmente ho pensato che questo particolare era coleotteri Zygogramma suturalis, che è anche comunemente chiamato Maggiolino Foglia Ambrosia. Ho mandato l'immagine in Bugguide.net e ha ricevuto un ID verificato da Ken Wolgemuth. E 'bello sapere che tanti piccoli insetti si nutrono su un impianto nocivo.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-11762452683979248692011-05-08T11:57:00.000+07:002011-05-08T11:57:31.719+07:00Viewer Diskretion BeratungDiese hübsche kleine Vogel ist wohl einer der bekanntesten Vögel in Missouri, vielleicht sogar die gesamten Vereinigten Staaten, das ist die amerikanische Robin. Viele glauben fälschlicherweise, dass diese Vögel die Vorboten des Frühlings sind, aber in Wirklichkeit sind sie hier ganzjährig. Die Zahlen sind in der Regel niedriger im Winter, aber sie sind trotzdem hier. Robins sind häufig rund um Immobilien, hüpfen Werften auf der Suche nach Würmern. Leider, wie so viele Vögel, die rund um die menschliche Behausungen zu hängen, sind Kollisionen mit Windows üblich. Heute, während ich die Blumen Jäten entdeckte ich ein Rotkehlchen tot unter den Blumen. Diese immer entmutigt mich, da ich für jeden Vogel, um zu sterben, vor allem ein Tod, der vermeidbar sein sollte hassen. Ich tatsächlich etwas hängen in meinem Fenster, die zur Vermeidung dieser Kollisionen sollte, aber leider es nicht für diese unglücklichen Opfer zu arbeiten.<br />
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<div class="entry-body"><div><div class="item-body"><div><div style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdfz2jM6QXJjNe_r3pDhdIibddLqMA7sDEN-PlwT84FBC2gXZjr6RLiuJs8oXYrIbULyUf49NcZIiE8zuxv61UKtFAbDD8F5VCOSzNhdWYxKDnnEy2LIUpFybyyZzU70pSE3k-Kf-tZYI/s1600/robin+2.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdfz2jM6QXJjNe_r3pDhdIibddLqMA7sDEN-PlwT84FBC2gXZjr6RLiuJs8oXYrIbULyUf49NcZIiE8zuxv61UKtFAbDD8F5VCOSzNhdWYxKDnnEy2LIUpFybyyZzU70pSE3k-Kf-tZYI/s320/robin+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></div></div></div></div>Ich hob den Vogel bis zu entsorgen Sie es ordnungsgemäß vor unserem Hund schnupperte sie heraus. Wenn ich den Körper hob, entdeckte ich, dass Mutter Natur schon schwer war bei der Arbeit Abbau der Körper des Vogels Körper.<br />
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Wenn Sie leicht heraus oder hochgerechnet werden, haben eine schwache Magen, das ist, wo Sie wollen Ihren Computer ausschalten ..... oder zumindest Ausfahrt MObugs ......<br />
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Ich habe dich gewarnt .....<br />
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</div><div style="clear: both; font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPeS3RAtclNOqem-ZsqggCFu4UEZFICbJgaHbBkDrqyi5nvA0IXVw6TvxQMRozNxuXZE5oKgLqkj1Lh4zus9V566A6H68t9QhgOotQYfLzwuUcE1iX4RlmRjmVaKgga4c0i98U61CuSYU/s1600/robin+maggots.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPeS3RAtclNOqem-ZsqggCFu4UEZFICbJgaHbBkDrqyi5nvA0IXVw6TvxQMRozNxuXZE5oKgLqkj1Lh4zus9V566A6H68t9QhgOotQYfLzwuUcE1iX4RlmRjmVaKgga4c0i98U61CuSYU/s320/robin+maggots.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Fliegen hatte Eier auf den frisch Verstorbenen Körper gelegt, durch die Größe der Maden Ich vermute, dies geschah etwa 3 Tagen. Es gab Dutzende dieser Maden eifrig Fütterung auf das Fleisch, gab es die Illusion, dass der Vogel noch am Leben war, wie es mit der Bewegung der Fütterung Maden wanden.<br />
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<div style="clear: both; font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT0A_Voe2XncyUTLXXqUGiv2WtzGmzwthJl79x1UJyGi6-KJugtS59qGlrynl1ahD8LbxhL9qTT0ypuW65-YiPR3aGT_opKslTuH2iWwjRDQA9AnyuBVq4pod8l8mydMWfKC4notR08Es/s1600/maggots.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT0A_Voe2XncyUTLXXqUGiv2WtzGmzwthJl79x1UJyGi6-KJugtS59qGlrynl1ahD8LbxhL9qTT0ypuW65-YiPR3aGT_opKslTuH2iWwjRDQA9AnyuBVq4pod8l8mydMWfKC4notR08Es/s320/maggots.jpg" width="238" /></a></div><div style="clear: both; font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Während der Geruch war ein bisschen überwältigt, ich konnte nicht helfen, aber zusehen, wie diese Kreaturen zugeführt. Ihre Körper bewegt sich in einem sehr zielgerichtet. Sie haben sogar genug Verstand, um aus dem Licht, und aus meiner Störung Rückzug besaß. Ihre Körper bewegten sich in einer sehr Blob-ähnliche Art und Weise, erinnert an die Art und Weise eine Dichtung bewegen würde. Man konnte sehen, Blut durch den Körper zirkulieren, in fast durchsichtige Haut.<br />
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<div style="clear: both; font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWWQ2l_c8Y4DXa8g47gSpOZiWkER1ZzOg1vj6KROdAmzXZZSJ5LAqrHLMsXO4ZUXOw8yUiyaqms-TwnbtLh34ZBlIDpZZD2suQZnfSuR_XYXkFIOTdZx-VwNY5wW9zzmqyZ00HcqKvMt4/s1600/maggot3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="124" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWWQ2l_c8Y4DXa8g47gSpOZiWkER1ZzOg1vj6KROdAmzXZZSJ5LAqrHLMsXO4ZUXOw8yUiyaqms-TwnbtLh34ZBlIDpZZD2suQZnfSuR_XYXkFIOTdZx-VwNY5wW9zzmqyZ00HcqKvMt4/s320/maggot3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Jedes Segment des Körpers sichtbar ist in diesem Bild, wie es die Blut-Tasche. Ausgewachsene Maden können über einen halben Zoll in der Länge zu erreichen. Ältere Schlag Fliegenmaden sind cremefarbig. Maden haben eine sehr typische Körperform, das Kopfende ist schlank und verjüngt sich bis zu einem Punkt, während das hintere Ende ist dicker und endet stumpf. Die hakenförmigen Mundwerkzeugen sind die einzigen sichtbaren Teil des Kopfes dieser Fliegen. Das hintere Ende des Made hat zwei weiße Bohne förmigen Muster am Ende, diese sind Luftlöcher zum Atmen verwendet. Spiracles werden verwendet, um die Familie und Arten von Fliegenmaden identifizieren, da nur oberflächlich, sie sehen alle gleich. Ältere Maden werden verpuppen. Die Puppe ist in einem roten Ziegeln Fall verdeckt genannt Puparium. Diese sind kleiner als die Maden und mehr kreisförmig. Adult Schmeißfliegen ähneln Stubenfliegen in der Form aber sind oft metallisch grün oder blau gefärbt.<br />
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Adult Schmeißfliegen legen ihre Eier auf oder nahe verrottenden Vegetation, Kot oder Tieren. Eier brüten sehr schnell, und Maden beginnen, die verdorbene Lebensmittel zu konsumieren. Maden verpuppen und sich als Erwachsene in wenigen Tagen, abhängig von der Temperatur. Insgesamt Entwicklungszeit vom Ei bis zum erwachsenen kann so schnell passieren wie eine Woche, da gute Bedingungen, und je nach Fischart. Sie entwickeln und zu konsumieren Lebensmittel schnell, so dass, wenn eine Made gereift ist, bewegt er sich weg von der Nahrungsquelle zu verdauen und die Vorbereitungen für Verpuppung. Während dieser Bewegung weg von den Lebensmitteln, kann eine Made ziemlich weit reisen, bis zu 100 Meter.<br />
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Bestimmte leben Maden schon seit der Antike als eine wirtschaftliche, sichere und effektive Art der Wundreinigung eingesetzt. In kontrollierten und sterilen Einstellungen von lizenzierten Ärzten, stellt Madentherapie leben, desinfiziert Maden in nicht heilenden Haut oder weich Wunden eines Menschen oder anderen Tieren. Sie fressen die toten alten Gewebe, so dass die lebendes Gewebe allein. Es ist ungewiss, ob Madensekret irgendeinen Effekt auf das bakterielle Wachstum haben, da verschiedene Studien zu widersprüchlichen Ergebnissen geführt haben, und einige Arten von Bakterien kann eine natürliche Resistenz gegen Sekrete Maden. Ab 2008 war Madentherapie in rund 1.000 medizinischen Zentren in Europa und über 800 medizinischen Zentren in den Vereinigten Staaten verwendet. Während es ein bisschen anspruchsvoller über Maden winden sich in eine offene Wunde auf unseren Körper denken kann, ist es sicher Beats Nekrose und Tod durch eine Infektion. Wir Menschen haben eine natürliche Abneigung gegen alles gruselig und grobe und Maden sicher qualifizieren als gruselig und brutto. Wenn Sie es schaffen, vorbei an den offensichtlich zu bekommen, und Blick auf die nicht so offensichtlich, kann man weiter sehen, dass sie merkwürdigen Wesen. Während keiner von uns liebt Fliegen, die das Potenzial haben, die Ausbreitung der Krankheit und verunreinigen Lebensmittel, sollten wir aber über die Arbeit ihrer fleißigen Nachwuchs durchführen zu bestaunen. Sie sind die Aufräumarbeiten Crew .... verbraucht ungezählte Mengen von verfaulen, verwesen Fleisch. Stell dir eine Welt ohne Maden, Geier, Aas Käfer und andere unappetitliche Kreaturen zur Säuberung des Verstorbenen Organe der alle Arten von Kreaturen. Es wäre eine Gemeinheit, stinkenden Ort sein. Ich habe eine Tendenz, die Außenseiter der natürlichen Welt begünstigen, und für mich diese Tierchen sind definitiv Außenseiter.<br />
<div style="clear: both; font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFTaDPzSN2bPQvv328E6_2uv2S6Xc8AbPb0ZFyRA_sEeuCfZprLrHt8vzCywiSOaP7x2T1eU27Y76jM0H7ipCoijoBVKVcFYYtxGtlBXi3xqWr42zYMn_XzCsKNbpW7Vv-G0H-TeGj3sg/s1600/house+fly.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFTaDPzSN2bPQvv328E6_2uv2S6Xc8AbPb0ZFyRA_sEeuCfZprLrHt8vzCywiSOaP7x2T1eU27Y76jM0H7ipCoijoBVKVcFYYtxGtlBXi3xqWr42zYMn_XzCsKNbpW7Vv-G0H-TeGj3sg/s320/house+fly.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Ein Haus zu fliegen durch den Geruch des Todes angezogen, sie landet auf dem Flügel des verstorbenen Robin. Vielleicht ist diese faulen Vogel für ihre Nachkommen sowie zu stellen. So, während es traurig ist, dass die Robin ihr Leben verloren, über den Tod hinaus ist es in der Lage, Leben, einige der widerlichsten Wesen und Kreaturen missverstanden zu geben. Mutter Natur denkt an alles!Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4232960708427229763.post-86503089331101398682011-01-15T23:44:00.000+07:002011-01-15T23:44:35.738+07:00Bean-Leaf Beetles (Cerotoma trifurcata)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbG5Ee9PWSmZzLRdiBeqK682Ty4ZRZNArFsbUg0hZXmFnJYG_TgIYcYgQpKUANIGm-Xt6BQGxW6tbc-hiRbOJ7clQImQwvz6nhwPlcISMBqy3_TExmJ19-t8msIsZyGKLy3xub6ymXi9o/s1600/bean+leaf+beetle.jpg" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbG5Ee9PWSmZzLRdiBeqK682Ty4ZRZNArFsbUg0hZXmFnJYG_TgIYcYgQpKUANIGm-Xt6BQGxW6tbc-hiRbOJ7clQImQwvz6nhwPlcISMBqy3_TExmJ19-t8msIsZyGKLy3xub6ymXi9o/s320/bean+leaf+beetle.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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This tiny beetle is a Bean-Leaf Beetle (Cerotoma trifurcata). They are up to 1/4 of inch in length and can vary in color from red to yellowish-tan as pictured here. They will generally have four rectangular shaped spots on their elytra (wings).<br />
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Because there is so much variation in the appearance of this beetle, including specimens that are free of the rectangular spots, that the most reliable source of identification is the triangular black marking at the base of the thorax where the wings attach. This marking is ALWAYS present on this species and will accurately help you identify them from other species of bean beetles. This particular species is found throughout the Eastern United States, parts of Canada and Mexico.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl0DR6m77YAiXNuVbYCRB-Vkjrq4VUkB2SaKs_BswxMNsC97yBwO2m8BXVkS8aIhmZ-rlEsv6SEaZ5cj8vqGTMiqYN7Qvx9GEThjFMTopQQTuu-yWdnPD6gcQcR_uvRXWPxG3IMfIaFgk/s1600/bean+leaf+beetle+1.jpg" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl0DR6m77YAiXNuVbYCRB-Vkjrq4VUkB2SaKs_BswxMNsC97yBwO2m8BXVkS8aIhmZ-rlEsv6SEaZ5cj8vqGTMiqYN7Qvx9GEThjFMTopQQTuu-yWdnPD6gcQcR_uvRXWPxG3IMfIaFgk/s320/bean+leaf+beetle+1.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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They overwinter as adults and become active in the spring with the return of warm weather (50-55 degrees). Soon after becoming active again they will begin feeding on the early foliage of soybeans and other legumes. If the spring is wet and cooler and planting of soybean crops is delayed until after June first, the chances of the first generation of these beetles becoming established is greatly reduced. Successfully bred females will deposit their eggs in soil and after hatching will feed on the roots of the plants. A single female is capable of producing up to 200 eggs. This root feeding does not usually cause significant damage to the crops, instead it is the late season feeding of the adults on the plants themselves that causes the biggest problem for soybean farmers. These adult beetles attack the foliage and the pods, and a veritable feeding frenzy will occur once the pods begin to dry out in August and September as the pods are tender and tasty, something any self-respecting adult bean-leaf beetle cannot refuse.<br />
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Originally they were a secondary pest of soybean crops, but by the 1970's their numbers had begun to increase exponentially and they are now tied for second place as an important pest of soybean and other legumes. There are even reports of this species transferring its feeding preference over to pumpkins.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNODvucsUO2NxpY38eKUBFvg4PlbeKPt5vyQteXuNqxEUj5ntA5XJJlkuQKTv6KdJuY_TKhZ4MxNAXJtjnX89X3FR8okmr2m9qJwTX-AFFm-q83gNDFnJot4YagzX0wENG4W5U7mYMBoA/s1600/g07150art04.jpg" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNODvucsUO2NxpY38eKUBFvg4PlbeKPt5vyQteXuNqxEUj5ntA5XJJlkuQKTv6KdJuY_TKhZ4MxNAXJtjnX89X3FR8okmr2m9qJwTX-AFFm-q83gNDFnJot4YagzX0wENG4W5U7mYMBoA/s200/g07150art04.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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(Damage of feeding adults on soybean pods--picture taken from University of Missouri)<br />
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This intensified feeding of the adults can cause moldy beans by enabling infection to spread through micro-organisms present at the feeding sights. These micro-organisms is what leads to moldy beans. This mold may lead to incomplete development of the bean,it may also allow the beans to adhere to the pod which are then lost during the harvest process, and the presence of mold can greatly reduce the quality of the harvest and leads to dockage when selling. They are capable of having up to three generations per year, although there is only two generations in Missouri. The first and second generations are the ones most likely to cause the moldy beans syndrome. Even though late planted fields generally won't be attacked by the feeding of first generation adult beetles, they still are not free from harm as the possibility of first and second generation beetles migrating into these fields from nearby fields is a very real threat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQq5hbPFCb40i9JfkYZUPveeqO-NJ99f8ne3wvHcBX1bgdfKBnYSZvBrpA_q0mHNVLqSypE95LWdjotlMd661cmEFDpOaYp0Dr4n-8xn6gIVpwodJXGX6OHm_VPy6LxnvqC5VmRb2ScLM/s1600/bean+leaf+beetle+2.jpg" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQq5hbPFCb40i9JfkYZUPveeqO-NJ99f8ne3wvHcBX1bgdfKBnYSZvBrpA_q0mHNVLqSypE95LWdjotlMd661cmEFDpOaYp0Dr4n-8xn6gIVpwodJXGX6OHm_VPy6LxnvqC5VmRb2ScLM/s320/bean+leaf+beetle+2.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Early sweep netting of soybean fields can help determine the presence of these beetles and to what extent the infestation is. If there are two or more beetles per sweep and 15% or more of damage to plants, then a rescue treatment may need to be applied to the plants to offset any further damage.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com